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Archive for the ‘2006 PCT Trail Journal’ Category

Destination: Cascade Creek
Starting Location: Lower Kerrick Canyon Bear Valley Trail Junction
Today’s Miles: 19.70
Trip Miles: 1001.20
Lower Kerrick Canyon (980.2, 7960) to Cascade Creek (999.9, 8975) ascent (3835) descent (2835)

When Pang & Sunny help the last person off the log at Kerrick Canyon the dirty (stinky) dozen broke into a huge applause & I am pretty sure I was not the only one with wet eyes. The applause was partially for Sunny & Pang and they certainly deserved it as they demonstrated acrobatic balance skill as they helped people across. But the real applause was for each other & specifically for one in our group who has a physical condition that impacts their balance. When that person departed that log they were beaming & we were beaming with them.
I thought about that crossing all night & listened for any indication that the water was dropping. In the morning the condensation inside my tent was nearly dripping as the pint of water I respired during the night clung to the ceiling & sides. If you touch anything you get wet. After walking up the hill for morning chores * went to the river edge & noticed that indeed the water had dropped by a vertical foot. Sunny, Rolling Thunder & I consulted and were confident that we could get everyone across safely but wet. We then decided to do some more scouting and that’s when we found the log. Getting onto it was tricky & crossing it was scary but the practice paid off and when I needed to stay on the log most I did. So did everyone else & the feared crossing was over at 7:40 a.m.
The next crossing provided Rolling Thunder (yes he did get his name because he has a lot of gas) an opportunity to show us a New Zealand technique for multiple people to cross together. This technique is excellent on heavy current even bottom rivers and takes advantage of stronger members while breaking the flow for others.
Bear #2 was getting a drink when we startled her & she took off. We watched her run a long ways until she reached a wooded area. Again cinnamon in color but much smaller maybe weighing approximately 250 lbs.
First thing in the morning we will cross the 1000 mile mark. So today I have been singing: I will walk 500 miles & I will walk 500 more just to be the man who walked a thousand miles to knock on Lucky Liz’s door. Several of us have our own versions & I am likely the worst singer of the group but I still belt it out anyway. A thousand miles is a long ways to hike until you think that you have to do 1650 more. Thinking that way is overwhelming to me & the day at a time approach is much more manageable.

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Destination: Lower Kerrick Canyon Bear Valley Trail Junction
Starting Location: Matterhorn Canyon Trail
Today’s Miles: 17.70
Trip Miles: 981.50
Matterhorn Canyon Trail (962.5, 8510) to Lower Kerrick Canyon Bear Valley Trail Junction (980.2, 7960) ascent (4216) descent (4764) 17.7 miles

And now we wait. Our goal today was to reach the Kerrick Canyon crossing, assess the situation & cross or wait. As I walked down the river 3.5 miles towards the crossing I knew the answer. I am sure I could get across but to try this evening was certainly going to require swimming in some heavy water. Based on what we have seen, the creek should drop substantially overnight. And that is what we need. We have 12 of us here & I am glad for the large group. Everyone is making light of the situation, yet it is clear I am not the only one who is apprehensive. We have 6 good waders, 3 average & 3 who have varying degrees of difficulty. It is the last 3 I worry the most about and yet my respect for them grows exponentially with every crossing they make. They are admittedly scared, know they do not possess strong technical abilities, and yet they do anyway. It is going to be a long night listening to the roaring water. I am not certain but I doubt strongly that any one in this group will turn back. Between us we have enough rope to rig a safety line and maybe a pack retrieval line. We will see in the morning.
Today was one of the most spectacular of the trip. The weather was glorious with deep blue sky. And the granite with water pouring off as the snow melts was like magic. Taking photographs was futile as the scenes were too large to capture. Every time I looked at the LCD screen & compared to what my eyes were seeing I would shut off the camera due to inadequacy.
Heard today that “good judgment comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgment”. So you have to survive a bunch of stupid stuff before you learn anything. I tried that today. At what ultimately turned out to be a simple crossing at Piute Creek started out with a bit of experience gathering. I started in at an area that I knew was going to be chest deep but it was moving slow, or so I thought. Knowing my hip belt pockets would be submerged I took out my camera & said this is so easy I will just carry it. At about 4’ deep with my hip belt attached (oops) I floated right off the bottom into 6’ of water that was holding some really big trout for this country. Note to self: fish Piute Creek in the future. No big deal I thought as I floated (dry bags in the pack really add a lot of floatation) like a red & white fishing bobber. And then I saw the danger; a log perfectly submerged 2’ under the surface. If your legs go under that with a pack on you are going to be in trouble go-BIG as the current is going to pull you under with a good potential to get hung up. Or you may very well get pinned against the log where freeing yourself will be very tough.
I quickly pulled my legs up to my chest, while holding the camera in one hand & my hiking poles in the other, and just as I was clearing the log I sprang with all my ability towards more shallow water. The log was an aspen and it depressed a long way but when it rebounded it literally catapulted me to where I wanted to go – back where I started. Rolling Thunder got a great photo and said it was an amazing recovery. I was muttering something about stupid, stupid, stupid. Heard from my buddy Mike that he did the same thing with a much wetter & scarier outcome. He first got hung up in the log & when he got freed he was swept down river & given a good dunking before being spit out down stream. I guess I should mention that I was a water safety instructor in the Marine Corps and a Red Cross lifeguard. Obviously, brains were not required for either.
Well we just decided to sleep in until 6 tomorrow as we want the sun on the water for the crossing attempt. This will help prevent hypothermia but more importantly it will let me get a good look at the bottom & help with judging depth. Both of which will help with safety. I like sleeping in and am very excited.
The trail made what appeared to be a crazy ¾ circle today. We followed the trail route which was mostly snow covered. A few others took the shortest distance between two points, straight line approach and they arrived about an hour late for lunch after the cliff sent them back to follow our tracks. “It did not look that steep on the topo map” was the response. We kidded them for a bit & then took mercy & related my Donahue Pass screw up.
I am craving Thai food and Mexican food from a taqueria where the menu on the board is all in Spanish, the orange soda is Fanta and the Coke is always in a glass bottle.

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Today’s Miles: 19.80
Trip Miles: 963.80
Tuolumne Meadows, Highway 120 (942.7, 8595) to Matterhorn Canyon Trail (962.5, 8510) ascent (1066) descent (1150)
Pang suggested a soccer match & I told him that the American team was only interested in playing a game we knew we could win. The group agreed that was typical. Amazingly we are camped with 6 Americans and 6 hikers from other countries. We have Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, Spain and New Zealand represented. The PCT has more notoriety internationally than it does with our electorate. I wish I could more effectively convey to our members of Congress the magnitude of a world treasure they posess but do not adequately protect.
This morning was very difficult as I felt I literally & figuratively had the world on my shoulders. I was really down for several hours until the granite slabs & domes surrounding the Tuolumne River brought me back into the present which is really all that is relevant. The past is done & the future is anybody’s bet.
I forgot to mention it the other day but we saw motorcycle tracks on the PCT well into the Ansel Adams Wilderness area. This was a first. And how? Because of easy road access. The USDA Forest Service has an established road & campground at Agnew Meadows that is immediately adjacent to the Wilderness boundary. Forget about buffers and other appropriate protection measures; let’s have motorcycles in one of the last remaining partially wild places in California. If you ever think a new road is insignificant think again. Roads have all sorts of associated impacts that are never evaluated under the California Environmental Quality Act (CEQA) or the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA).
The reports that we would likely die today once again seem exaggerated. We had heard we would face heavy snow & impossible stream crossings. We found neither & compared to where we had been, today was hiking bliss. But we did see some jaws drop as we approached Virginia Creek crossing. At the crossing was a group of weekend backpackers & it was obvious the crossing had stopped their northern progress. And here we come. I rainproof my camera & maps & jump into the water as those wearing boots take them off and go barefoot or with water shoes right behind me. Then Swiss Miss & M&M show up, strip to bras and underwear & join the crossing party. After we crossed, those camped there walked to the waters edge pointing and shaking their heads. We waved, acted like we do this every day (which we do) and moved north.
With our current big group we have some very good waders and when we got to a tougher crossing in the afternoon it was so neat to have the 4 strong waders spanning the entire crossing. We just handed the other team members off to one another like the links in a chain. Those who needed help took it, those who could provide it gave it. On the other side, a simple high five thank you & a you’re welcome said it all. What wasn’t spoken was the absolute commitment to each other – we all cross, we all help each other reach a common goal.
Another thing about this morning. When I got to feeling better and was back in the now my pack weight literally got lighter. If you could measure the perceived weight differences the numbers would be staggering.
I must have put my tent up on the nightly cruise route of the local deer population. It is like a freeway outside my door (10’ away) with deer coming and apparently going.
Not sure if you heard it but the Sugartex sucked in a second Swiss Army knife today. Sugar thinks it is going to appear as go-mom (my mom’s new trail name) does a load of laundry for us. I am not convinced as the Sugartex gives up its bounty very reluctantly.
Okay, now I have a herd of deer outside. All does with last years fawns. If I move quickly they get jumpy but if I just watch them while I write they just walk on & take a bit of grass now & then. They are well fed with no ticks bothering them this early in the season. We just had a little deer spat as one ran another off. My mistake, I now see we have a spike horn buck in the group. His horns, not more than 6” long with no laterals, are covered in velvet.
Destination: Matterhorn Canyon Trail
Starting Location: Tuolumne Meadows
Today’s Miles: 19.80
Trip Miles: 963.80
Tuolumne Meadows, Highway 120 (942.7, 8595) to Matterhorn Canyon Trail (962.5, 8510) ascent (1066) descent (1150)
Pang suggested a soccer match & I told him that the American team was only interested in playing a game we knew we could win. The group agreed that was typical. Amazingly we are camped with 6 Americans and 6 hikers from other countries. We have Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, Spain and New Zealand represented. The PCT has more notoriety internationally than it does with our electorate. I wish I could more effectively convey to our members of Congress the magnitude of a world treasure they posess but do not adequately protect.
This morning was very difficult as I felt I literally & figuratively had the world on my shoulders. I was really down for several hours until the granite slabs & domes surrounding the Tuolumne River brought me back into the present which is really all that is relevant. The past is done & the future is anybody’s bet.
I forgot to mention it the other day but we saw motorcycle tracks on the PCT well into the Ansel Adams Wilderness area. This was a first. And how? Because of easy road access. The USDA Forest Service has an established road & campground at Agnew Meadows that is immediately adjacent to the Wilderness boundary. Forget about buffers and other appropriate protection measures; let’s have motorcycles in one of the last remaining partially wild places in California. If you ever think a new road is insignificant think again. Roads have all sorts of associated impacts that are never evaluated under the California Environmental Quality Act (CEQA) or the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA).
The reports that we would likely die today once again seem exaggerated. We had heard we would face heavy snow & impossible stream crossings. We found neither & compared to where we had been, today was hiking bliss. But we did see some jaws drop as we approached Virginia Creek crossing. At the crossing was a group of weekend backpackers & it was obvious the crossing had stopped their northern progress. And here we come. I rainproof my camera & maps & jump into the water as those wearing boots take them off and go barefoot or with water shoes right behind me. Then Swiss Miss & M&M show up, strip to bras and underwear & join the crossing party. After we crossed, those camped there walked to the waters edge pointing and shaking their heads. We waved, acted like we do this every day (which we do) and moved north.
With our current big group we have some very good waders and when we got to a tougher crossing in the afternoon it was so neat to have the 4 strong waders spanning the entire crossing. We just handed the other team members off to one another like the links in a chain. Those who needed help took it, those who could provide it gave it. On the other side, a simple high five thank you & a you’re welcome said it all. What wasn’t spoken was the absolute commitment to each other – we all cross, we all help each other reach a common goal.
Another thing about this morning. When I got to feeling better and was back in the now my pack weight literally got lighter. If you could measure the perceived weight differences the numbers would be staggering.
I must have put my tent up on the nightly cruise route of the local deer population. It is like a freeway outside my door (10’ away) with deer coming and apparently going.
Not sure if you heard it but the Sugartex sucked in a second Swiss Army knife today. Sugar thinks it is going to appear as go-mom (my mom’s new trail name) does a load of laundry for us. I am not convinced as the Sugartex gives up its bounty very reluctantly.
Okay, now I have a herd of deer outside. All does with last years fawns. If I move quickly they get jumpy but if I just watch them while I write they just walk on & take a bit of grass now & then. They are well fed with no ticks bothering them this early in the season. We just had a little deer spat as one ran another off. My mistake, I now see we have a spike horn buck in the group. His horns, not more than 6” long with no laterals, are covered in velvet.

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Destination: Tuolumne Meadows
Starting Location: Tuolumne Meadows
Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 944.00
Tuolumne Meadows – Zero
Today was an emotional mix that is difficult to understand. I am so happy & yet I feel like I just want to cry with joy & sadness together; both real emotions in the same time & place.
My family came up today & brought chicken & macaroni salad for the entire thru-hiker contingent at Tuolumne. We ate & ate & ate some more. Then they broke out the apple pies that Sugar Daddy had ordered for the party along with the brownies. It was so generous & Pang told me what a wonderful family I have. That really hit me as true and all I could say was thank you. And that was enough.
Talked to my mom and with her consent I share here that she has an invasive form of breast cancer. She meets with the surgeon in two weeks and will likely be facing an aggressive treatment regimen. She confirmed that her wish was for me to keep hiking. I am basically refusing to get down about my mom being ill. Yes, I understand the process of denial to anger to acceptance & I am sure I will deal with that, but my mom is tough and she needs positive energy and not a bunch of oh poor you crap. She helped teach me the life lesson of: okay now what are you going to do about it. The “it” this time just happens to be some compromised cells. Let’s kick their ass.
While my dad, whose (per an email from Weed) trail name is go-Bob, took a group of hikers to Yosemite Valley to retrieve their stranded resupply boxes and supplement their food at the grocery, Sugar Daddy & I got organized. Pang, Sheri, Cathy & my mom played cards & it was so neat to see our trail friendships transcend into new relationships.
Liz sent me a print out of the guest register from this journal. Thank you all for the support. She also said she liked the idea of taking Sugar Daddy up on his offer for an adventure tour of Peru. Sounds like the Inca Trail may be coming next. Actually there is a new set of ruins that apparently surpass Machu-Picchu that are just being uncovered. No tours, no guides, just go, explore, and wonder about cultures who have gone before us. Learning Spanish (okay, maybe only a bit as I do not know English yet) has been on my life to do list for a while and Peru has schools near Sugar Daddy that per American standards are very inexpensive. So maybe.
Regarding a life to do list. This is something Liz & I started doing a few years ago & I would highly recommend the process. Each year we sit down together, make individual lists, compare the lists & look for overlap, and then decide what we are going to do. Typically something big has to make the list for multiple years before it gets acted on. But the process of seeing something on paper helps us recognize that it is important to us & keeps us moving towards execution. Other things on my list include sailing across an ocean & our joint list includes making a significant contribution to securing the PCT corridor for the future.
Hiking frees your mind of day to day stuff & opens up new possibilities for the future as well as reflections of the past. One reflection I have been having is about a relationship I was in many years ago and how it helped shape my life. I was 25 years very young and immature, drank to excess, & was generally a jerk. Despite that I was engaged to a really wonderful woman who got smart & dumped me cold. Left town & everything – never to be heard from again. The resentment, the anger, the self loathing ultimately became too much & I had finally had enough. First I quit drinking & then I started to grow up. Still at the growing up part but I am getting it. Seventeen years later, hiking the PCT I get a message that that really wonderful woman called & needs to talk to me. She too apparently has cancer. I called her today & left a message. Gone was the resentment & anger – replaced with concern & compassion. And yes with some apprehensive curiosity – I wonder why she needs to talk to me.
Had a bit of a hiking compatibility problem with a fellow hiker. Nothing serious at all but the group dynamics were not working. Instead of being perfectly direct, which would have been preferred but I could unfortunately not do it, I talked to the person’s hiking partner who sensed the dynamics problem & understood. We are leaving in the morning on good terms but we will go our separate ways. I am really torn as I really like the other guy & would really like to get to know him better. Maybe down the trail.
I am just feeling like I can’t do this. Not that I want to quit, just that I can’t do it   I think the emotions are catching up to me. My mom is sick, an ex-fiancé needs to talk to me, I have so far to go. I need to sleep – tomorrow is a big day with a reported tough crossing.
Destination: Tuolumne Meadows
Starting Location: Tuolumne Meadows
Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 944.00
Tuolumne Meadows – Zero
Today was an emotional mix that is difficult to understand. I am so happy & yet I feel like I just want to cry with joy & sadness together; both real emotions in the same time & place.
My family came up today & brought chicken & macaroni salad for the entire thru-hiker contingent at Tuolumne. We ate & ate & ate some more. Then they broke out the apple pies that Sugar Daddy had ordered for the party along with the brownies. It was so generous & Pang told me what a wonderful family I have. That really hit me as true and all I could say was thank you. And that was enough.
Talked to my mom and with her consent I share here that she has an invasive form of breast cancer. She meets with the surgeon in two weeks and will likely be facing an aggressive treatment regimen. She confirmed that her wish was for me to keep hiking. I am basically refusing to get down about my mom being ill. Yes, I understand the process of denial to anger to acceptance & I am sure I will deal with that, but my mom is tough and she needs positive energy and not a bunch of oh poor you crap. She helped teach me the life lesson of: okay now what are you going to do about it. The “it” this time just happens to be some compromised cells. Let’s kick their ass.
While my dad, whose (per an email from Weed) trail name is go-Bob, took a group of hikers to Yosemite Valley to retrieve their stranded resupply boxes and supplement their food at the grocery, Sugar Daddy & I got organized. Pang, Sheri, Cathy & my mom played cards & it was so neat to see our trail friendships transcend into new relationships.
Liz sent me a print out of the guest register from this journal. Thank you all for the support. She also said she liked the idea of taking Sugar Daddy up on his offer for an adventure tour of Peru. Sounds like the Inca Trail may be coming next. Actually there is a new set of ruins that apparently surpass Machu-Picchu that are just being uncovered. No tours, no guides, just go, explore, and wonder about cultures who have gone before us. Learning Spanish (okay, maybe only a bit as I do not know English yet) has been on my life to do list for a while and Peru has schools near Sugar Daddy that per American standards are very inexpensive. So maybe.
Regarding a life to do list. This is something Liz & I started doing a few years ago & I would highly recommend the process. Each year we sit down together, make individual lists, compare the lists & look for overlap, and then decide what we are going to do. Typically something big has to make the list for multiple years before it gets acted on. But the process of seeing something on paper helps us recognize that it is important to us & keeps us moving towards execution. Other things on my list include sailing across an ocean & our joint list includes making a significant contribution to securing the PCT corridor for the future.
Hiking frees your mind of day to day stuff & opens up new possibilities for the future as well as reflections of the past. One reflection I have been having is about a relationship I was in many years ago and how it helped shape my life. I was 25 years very young and immature, drank to excess, & was generally a jerk. Despite that I was engaged to a really wonderful woman who got smart & dumped me cold. Left town & everything – never to be heard from again. The resentment, the anger, the self loathing ultimately became too much & I had finally had enough. First I quit drinking & then I started to grow up. Still at the growing up part but I am getting it. Seventeen years later, hiking the PCT I get a message that that really wonderful woman called & needs to talk to me. She too apparently has cancer. I called her today & left a message. Gone was the resentment & anger – replaced with concern & compassion. And yes with some apprehensive curiosity – I wonder why she needs to talk to me.
Had a bit of a hiking compatibility problem with a fellow hiker. Nothing serious at all but the group dynamics were not working. Instead of being perfectly direct, which would have been preferred but I could unfortunately not do it, I talked to the person’s hiking partner who sensed the dynamics problem & understood. We are leaving in the morning on good terms but we will go our separate ways. I am really torn as I really like the other guy & would really like to get to know him better. Maybe down the trail.
I am just feeling like I can’t do this. Not that I want to quit, just that I can’t do it   I think the emotions are catching up to me. My mom is sick, an ex-fiancé needs to talk to me, I have so far to go. I need to sleep – tomorrow is a big day with a reported tough crossing.

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Destination: Tuolumne Meadows
Starting Location: Marie Lakes Trail
Today’s Miles: 16.30
Trip Miles: 944.00
Marie Lakes Trail (926.4, 9200) to Tuolumne Meadows (942.7, 8595) ascent (1466) descent (2545)
Eleven thru hikers made it to Tuolumne Meadows today. In attendance: go-BIG, Sugar Daddy, Swiss Miss, Pang, M&M (formerly Rita), Mike Unger, Herman, Tadpole, Sunny, Rolling Thunder & Three Gallon.
We summitted the last PCT pass over 11,000 feet at 7:40 a.m. Donahue Pass was covered in snow (big surprise) & the basin was tricky as the mountain presented several potential pass options. We followed tracks for a ways & then they headed up one of the options. Pang & I compared notes & we checked the GPS to confirm our suspicion – you boys & girls went over the wrong pass. Looking at the route down I made a big mistake and proposed a route that looked less steep than the snow traverse that was close to the trail route. The team forgave me but I felt like a dope because while not overly dangerous the route was difficult & included a push through a willow scrub thicket that tore clothing & skin. Memo to self: the actual trail route is nearly always better – regardless of what it looks like from a distance.
When we hit Highway 102 we were surprised to see hiker/trail angel Alice (No Way Ray’s wife) sitting by the road with a sign reading “PCT hiker snacks”. Alice had hiked with Pang, Swiss Miss & Rita and she had come up to see them. As things on the trail do – it worked out perfectly.
I met a fly fisherman yesterday named Herb. Turns out his son is hiking & when I introduced myself he knew me from my journal. It was neat & odd. Here was a great guy who knew a lot about me & my trip & yet I knew nothing about him. That is a strange dynamic for a two way conversation.
Destination: Tuolumne Meadows
Starting Location: Marie Lakes Trail
Today’s Miles: 16.30
Trip Miles: 944.00
Marie Lakes Trail (926.4, 9200) to Tuolumne Meadows (942.7, 8595) ascent (1466) descent (2545)
Eleven thru hikers made it to Tuolumne Meadows today. In attendance: go-BIG, Sugar Daddy, Swiss Miss, Pang, M&M (formerly Rita), Mike Unger, Herman, Tadpole, Sunny, Rolling Thunder & Three Gallon.
We summitted the last PCT pass over 11,000 feet at 7:40 a.m. Donahue Pass was covered in snow (big surprise) & the basin was tricky as the mountain presented several potential pass options. We followed tracks for a ways & then they headed up one of the options. Pang & I compared notes & we checked the GPS to confirm our suspicion – you boys & girls went over the wrong pass. Looking at the route down I made a big mistake and proposed a route that looked less steep than the snow traverse that was close to the trail route. The team forgave me but I felt like a dope because while not overly dangerous the route was difficult & included a push through a willow scrub thicket that tore clothing & skin. Memo to self: the actual trail route is nearly always better – regardless of what it looks like from a distance.
When we hit Highway 102 we were surprised to see hiker/trail angel Alice (No Way Ray’s wife) sitting by the road with a sign reading “PCT hiker snacks”. Alice had hiked with Pang, Swiss Miss & Rita and she had come up to see them. As things on the trail do – it worked out perfectly.
I met a fly fisherman yesterday named Herb. Turns out his son is hiking & when I introduced myself he knew me from my journal. It was neat & odd. Here was a great guy who knew a lot about me & my trip & yet I knew nothing about him. That is a strange dynamic for a two way conversation.

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Destination: Marie Lakes Trail
Starting Location: Agnew Meadows
Today’s Miles: 11.90
Trip Miles: 927.70
Agnew Meadows (914.5, 9200) to Marie Lakes Trail (926.4, 10,000) ascent (3688) descent (1850)
Today was like backpacking & boy is that easy. Our yesterday afternoon thundershower morphed into steady rain mid morning, and we made fast miles on snow free trail. During breakfast Herman from Belgium & Mike Unger from Seattle caught us. We hiked until the sun came out & then enjoyed basking on the warming rocks with the marmots. The afternoon threatened more rain but as we donned gear it would quit.
Very surprising was that we had some navigation problems in an area that should have been easy. In our defense the Rush River Trail is not depicted accurately on either set of our maps & when we came to a log bridge we assumed incorrectly it was the PCT. We realized our error quickly but resolving it was a two hour problem. So much for our idea of getting to camp by 3 pm and relaxing. By the time we found the PCT route we noticed fresh prints and a yodel quickly got a response from Sunny & Tadpole.
Nine of us are now together & everyone in the group is being helped by dad in some way & we all have a rendezvous with him on Friday morning. Our tents are side by side in a very small snow free zone (see photo) & we just enjoyed an evening of tales of the PCT. Naturally most discussions centered on the hairy stuff.
Pang has a new stream crossing strategy that entails bridge building. I was laughing so hard I was crying as I looked up and saw him carrying a 12” x 9’ log down the opposite bank trail. A couple of well placed 100 lb rocks and the log made a swell platform for the rest of us. I suggested to Pang that he simply carry a saw and fell trees as needed to provide crossings. He is seriously considering it.
Like snow cups mosquitoes are evil. I asked Sugar Daddy why in the world God would make mosquitoes. He says that after the fall from grace (eating the fruit) women were to suffer in childbirth & God basically added thorns and pests to the garden. Hey before I forget, did you know the bible does not say Eve ate an apple bur rather keeps it generic and says fruit? Me either. Think about the possibilities. Hell it could have been a kumquat or a tomato. Anyway intrigued by this question I asked a follow-up: “Given that man likely figured out that mosquitoes were evil, than why the hell did Moses, I mean Noah, let them on the ark?” Apparently the bible is silent on this issue. So Sugar Daddy & others have told me that it takes more faith to believe in evolutionary biology than it does to believe in a literal bible. I must be the slowest heathen on earth because I am having a time of it believing that this babe ate a tomato and how we have mosquitoes.
Regardless anything that sucks my blood is not a friend of mine. I actually tried the head net thing this morning to keep the bastards (actually it is only the females that bite) at bay. It worked great except I could not see well enough to prevent me from walking into things and besides it started raining and solved the problem. Deet does work very well on warding off mosquitoes and as well as dissolving polymers. How come I am skeptical about “no human health risk” claims? Not that it matters – I would use it anyway.
It is hard to hike in full rain gear because of thermal regulation. I simply overheat once my exertion level (climb a hill) increases. My solution sounds crazy but works. I have, but do not wear rain pants. Instead I wear shorts & let my leg get really cold & dissipate enormous amounts of heat from my thighs. This allows me to keep a rain jacket on without overheating. I do not mind dripping wet legs but water running down the back is cold & uncomfortable. I am also really impressed with this fabric called skin. It is totally waterproof, breathable, flexible, & self repairing to small damaged areas.
Destination: Marie Lakes Trail
Starting Location: Agnew Meadows
Today’s Miles: 11.90
Trip Miles: 927.70
Agnew Meadows (914.5, 9200) to Marie Lakes Trail (926.4, 10,000) ascent (3688) descent (1850)
Today was like backpacking & boy is that easy. Our yesterday afternoon thundershower morphed into steady rain mid morning, and we made fast miles on snow free trail. During breakfast Herman from Belgium & Mike Unger from Seattle caught us. We hiked until the sun came out & then enjoyed basking on the warming rocks with the marmots. The afternoon threatened more rain but as we donned gear it would quit.
Very surprising was that we had some navigation problems in an area that should have been easy. In our defense the Rush River Trail is not depicted accurately on either set of our maps & when we came to a log bridge we assumed incorrectly it was the PCT. We realized our error quickly but resolving it was a two hour problem. So much for our idea of getting to camp by 3 pm and relaxing. By the time we found the PCT route we noticed fresh prints and a yodel quickly got a response from Sunny & Tadpole.
Nine of us are now together & everyone in the group is being helped by dad in some way & we all have a rendezvous with him on Friday morning. Our tents are side by side in a very small snow free zone (see photo) & we just enjoyed an evening of tales of the PCT. Naturally most discussions centered on the hairy stuff.
Pang has a new stream crossing strategy that entails bridge building. I was laughing so hard I was crying as I looked up and saw him carrying a 12” x 9’ log down the opposite bank trail. A couple of well placed 100 lb rocks and the log made a swell platform for the rest of us. I suggested to Pang that he simply carry a saw and fell trees as needed to provide crossings. He is seriously considering it.
Like snow cups mosquitoes are evil. I asked Sugar Daddy why in the world God would make mosquitoes. He says that after the fall from grace (eating the fruit) women were to suffer in childbirth & God basically added thorns and pests to the garden. Hey before I forget, did you know the bible does not say Eve ate an apple bur rather keeps it generic and says fruit? Me either. Think about the possibilities. Hell it could have been a kumquat or a tomato. Anyway intrigued by this question I asked a follow-up: “Given that man likely figured out that mosquitoes were evil, than why the hell did Moses, I mean Noah, let them on the ark?” Apparently the bible is silent on this issue. So Sugar Daddy & others have told me that it takes more faith to believe in evolutionary biology than it does to believe in a literal bible. I must be the slowest heathen on earth because I am having a time of it believing that this babe ate a tomato and how we have mosquitoes.
Regardless anything that sucks my blood is not a friend of mine. I actually tried the head net thing this morning to keep the bastards (actually it is only the females that bite) at bay. It worked great except I could not see well enough to prevent me from walking into things and besides it started raining and solved the problem. Deet does work very well on warding off mosquitoes and as well as dissolving polymers. How come I am skeptical about “no human health risk” claims? Not that it matters – I would use it anyway.
It is hard to hike in full rain gear because of thermal regulation. I simply overheat once my exertion level (climb a hill) increases. My solution sounds crazy but works. I have, but do not wear rain pants. Instead I wear shorts & let my leg get really cold & dissipate enormous amounts of heat from my thighs. This allows me to keep a rain jacket on without overheating. I do not mind dripping wet legs but water running down the back is cold & uncomfortable. I am also really impressed with this fabric called skin. It is totally waterproof, breathable, flexible, & self repairing to small damaged areas.

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Destination: Agnew Meadows
Starting Location: South of Deer Creek
Today’s Miles: 14.00
Trip Miles: 915.80
South of Deer Creek (900.5, 9200) to Agnew Meadows (914.5, 8360) ascent (1342) descent (1810)
5:50 PM – Inside my tent as rain falls & thunder booms. If I remember right after the lightning you count one one thousandth, two one thousandth, & when you hear the boom you know approximately how far away the lightning is because sound travels at approximately one mile per second. If my buddy Rich Beyak is reading this please put your engineering cap on & let our readers know if I got this right. As you know from working with me Rich I am pretty good at the numbers but I am way too casual in my approach as well as my precision. Regardless, our biggest flash resulted in three one thousandth and thus it was approximately a couple of miles away. And it boomed as to say stay in your tent grasshopper. If you have not been in a mountain thunder storm you have not lived . . . truly awesome.
Just made a quick dash for water between clouds. Saw barbed wire fence and thus clear evidence of livestock management. So I am back to drinking chemicals in my water. Drinking freely from mountain streams over the last several weeks has been a simple pleasure and a powerful commentary on the value of clean drinking water. Speaking of treating water, at VVR I read in the hiker log book a valuable lesson as paraphrased & cleaned up for our younger sensitive readers: when ever you are securing water near a crossing always filter or treat your water because you never know if the last hiker across pooped themselves out of fear during the crossing.
Things worked out so perfectly today. For breakfast I had a great scone and a three musketeer’s bar with the crazy hope that the café or store at Reds Meadow would be open. I knew it was wishful thinking but I have always been a dreamer. The first thing I saw was the stars & stripes flying proudly (always a good sign) & then I saw it on the board outside the empty café: “opening day – welcome to Reds”. Why yes I would like coffee, and pancakes, & eggs over easy with bacon. In fact you better bring an extra side of bacon and a large orange juice. More coffee? Please in fact just leave the pot.
First day for bus service into Reds as well & while enjoying breakfast we see Pang, Swiss Miss & Rita get off the bus. Outside we run, produce our best American yodel, followed by hugs all around. How did you cross the falls at Mono Creek they asked? We answer & ask the same. Different strategies, same results, we are all together again. Off to the camp ground for a soak in the hot spring and more relaxing time as we have 3 days to go 35 miles.
After being persistent in tracking down Lucky Liz at work, I prevailed and reached the best wife in the world. We confirmed a rendezvous in Tahoe in about 10 days – yee ha. Sounds like the house decided to fall apart this week & Liz has been dealing with it. Fortunately my dad & brother-in-law were around to help out with things like water dripping from the ceiling when it was 105 degrees and clearly not raining. I recommended she sell the place & plan on moving to the mountains. She knew I was not kidding, & I think I heard in her voice an “I just might do that”.
Sugar Daddy was able to pick up e-mails via a pay phone & his pocket mail device. We heard Weed has indeed completed the PCT (Congratulations) & is back home helping his clients make money. We also heard from Cheers who is a few days behind us. He said they were having a bit of an easier time then I described & wished us continued success. I am not surprised they are having different experiences because the trail seems to do that & the snow is changing daily if not hourly. For example Sugar Daddy & I placed first tracks on parts of the PCT this morning indicating that those areas were covered as of yesterday. Pang & Swiss Miss described a rather large & a bit scary Deer Springs crossing late in the afternoon. We crossed it this morning & I did not even put my camera & maps into their rain gear.
Oh yea we hiked a few more miles after breakfast – on trail & oh so easy.
Talked to a trail crew from the Inyo National Forest going to work in the wilderness area. This designation, pursuant to the Wilderness Act, means no mechanical means can be used. I love Wilderness. I love the Wilderness designation. I love no mechanical means. But darn it really limits how much work a crew can do. The area in question burned several years ago during one of California’s famous wildfires called the Rainbow fire. This fire burned all of the conifers & those left standing were later sheared off mid trunk during heavy winters (like 2005 & 2006 for example( and so the trail is a series of tree crossings & the crew from the Inyo is clearing them with hand tools consistent with the Wilderness Act requirements. Ever use a two person misery whip saw or an ax for that matter? This city wimp has and one large tree can take a full day or more to clear where a chain saw with a 24” bar and some silence shattering gasoline could do the deed in minutes. Only one viable solution. Keep the Wilderness designation & restrictions fully in tact because any modifications or lessening of requirements by creative law making jeopardizes the entire act and provides precedence for other (say off road vehicle use) modifications. And more volunteers have to learn to swing an ax and pull a misery whip. You will feel good about the blisters you earn & you don’t even need ear plugs.
Heard some trail gossip today about some fledgling romances. Now for journals it is recommended that you not mention on trail romances. I mostly agree with this as gossip in general is, while fun, not particularly polite. What really got me however is that a dominant reason given, as to why not write about them, is that if the person has someone else back home they will not hear about it. What? Now I do not consider myself particularly old fashioned but what kind of crazy BS is this? “Don’t mention my relationship with hiker X, because my boyfriend, girlfriend, husband, wife . . . may find out about it. Hey, do what you want & if you are not in a committed relationship really do what you want. Just don’t ask me to help facilitate the façade that you actually care about someone back home if you don’t. Now back when I did not have a clue what he meant, & long before I actually tried it, a friend told me that people basically do not care about what you say, rather they care about what you do. So if you want to be trusted start being trustworthy, if you want a committed relationship, start being committed. Otherwise it is all talk and no walk – no pun intended.
Speaking of no walk, it is becoming impossible to know who is north & who is south of us because, like 2005, people are developing strategies that work for them. And this includes skipping this snow section for now. Some will do this section later & I think for many that is a very good idea as you can likely beat the North Cascades snow & still make it back in time to walk the Sierra in September minus the big water, big snow & little mosquitoes.
Destination: Agnew Meadows
Starting Location: South of Deer Creek
Today’s Miles: 14.00
Trip Miles: 915.80
South of Deer Creek (900.5, 9200) to Agnew Meadows (914.5, 8360) ascent (1342) descent (1810)
5:50 PM – Inside my tent as rain falls & thunder booms. If I remember right after the lightning you count one one thousandth, two one thousandth, & when you hear the boom you know approximately how far away the lightning is because sound travels at approximately one mile per second. If my buddy Rich Beyak is reading this please put your engineering cap on & let our readers know if I got this right. As you know from working with me Rich I am pretty good at the numbers but I am way too casual in my approach as well as my precision. Regardless, our biggest flash resulted in three one thousandth and thus it was approximately a couple of miles away. And it boomed as to say stay in your tent grasshopper. If you have not been in a mountain thunder storm you have not lived . . . truly awesome.
Just made a quick dash for water between clouds. Saw barbed wire fence and thus clear evidence of livestock management. So I am back to drinking chemicals in my water. Drinking freely from mountain streams over the last several weeks has been a simple pleasure and a powerful commentary on the value of clean drinking water. Speaking of treating water, at VVR I read in the hiker log book a valuable lesson as paraphrased & cleaned up for our younger sensitive readers: when ever you are securing water near a crossing always filter or treat your water because you never know if the last hiker across pooped themselves out of fear during the crossing.
Things worked out so perfectly today. For breakfast I had a great scone and a three musketeer’s bar with the crazy hope that the café or store at Reds Meadow would be open. I knew it was wishful thinking but I have always been a dreamer. The first thing I saw was the stars & stripes flying proudly (always a good sign) & then I saw it on the board outside the empty café: “opening day – welcome to Reds”. Why yes I would like coffee, and pancakes, & eggs over easy with bacon. In fact you better bring an extra side of bacon and a large orange juice. More coffee? Please in fact just leave the pot.
First day for bus service into Reds as well & while enjoying breakfast we see Pang, Swiss Miss & Rita get off the bus. Outside we run, produce our best American yodel, followed by hugs all around. How did you cross the falls at Mono Creek they asked? We answer & ask the same. Different strategies, same results, we are all together again. Off to the camp ground for a soak in the hot spring and more relaxing time as we have 3 days to go 35 miles.
After being persistent in tracking down Lucky Liz at work, I prevailed and reached the best wife in the world. We confirmed a rendezvous in Tahoe in about 10 days – yee ha. Sounds like the house decided to fall apart this week & Liz has been dealing with it. Fortunately my dad & brother-in-law were around to help out with things like water dripping from the ceiling when it was 105 degrees and clearly not raining. I recommended she sell the place & plan on moving to the mountains. She knew I was not kidding, & I think I heard in her voice an “I just might do that”.
Sugar Daddy was able to pick up e-mails via a pay phone & his pocket mail device. We heard Weed has indeed completed the PCT (Congratulations) & is back home helping his clients make money. We also heard from Cheers who is a few days behind us. He said they were having a bit of an easier time then I described & wished us continued success. I am not surprised they are having different experiences because the trail seems to do that & the snow is changing daily if not hourly. For example Sugar Daddy & I placed first tracks on parts of the PCT this morning indicating that those areas were covered as of yesterday. Pang & Swiss Miss described a rather large & a bit scary Deer Springs crossing late in the afternoon. We crossed it this morning & I did not even put my camera & maps into their rain gear.
Oh yea we hiked a few more miles after breakfast – on trail & oh so easy.
Talked to a trail crew from the Inyo National Forest going to work in the wilderness area. This designation, pursuant to the Wilderness Act, means no mechanical means can be used. I love Wilderness. I love the Wilderness designation. I love no mechanical means. But darn it really limits how much work a crew can do. The area in question burned several years ago during one of California’s famous wildfires called the Rainbow fire. This fire burned all of the conifers & those left standing were later sheared off mid trunk during heavy winters (like 2005 & 2006 for example( and so the trail is a series of tree crossings & the crew from the Inyo is clearing them with hand tools consistent with the Wilderness Act requirements. Ever use a two person misery whip saw or an ax for that matter? This city wimp has and one large tree can take a full day or more to clear where a chain saw with a 24” bar and some silence shattering gasoline could do the deed in minutes. Only one viable solution. Keep the Wilderness designation & restrictions fully in tact because any modifications or lessening of requirements by creative law making jeopardizes the entire act and provides precedence for other (say off road vehicle use) modifications. And more volunteers have to learn to swing an ax and pull a misery whip. You will feel good about the blisters you earn & you don’t even need ear plugs.
Heard some trail gossip today about some fledgling romances. Now for journals it is recommended that you not mention on trail romances. I mostly agree with this as gossip in general is, while fun, not particularly polite. What really got me however is that a dominant reason given, as to why not write about them, is that if the person has someone else back home they will not hear about it. What? Now I do not consider myself particularly old fashioned but what kind of crazy BS is this? “Don’t mention my relationship with hiker X, because my boyfriend, girlfriend, husband, wife . . . may find out about it. Hey, do what you want & if you are not in a committed relationship really do what you want. Just don’t ask me to help facilitate the façade that you actually care about someone back home if you don’t. Now back when I did not have a clue what he meant, & long before I actually tried it, a friend told me that people basically do not care about what you say, rather they care about what you do. So if you want to be trusted start being trustworthy, if you want a committed relationship, start being committed. Otherwise it is all talk and no walk – no pun intended.
Speaking of no walk, it is becoming impossible to know who is north & who is south of us because, like 2005, people are developing strategies that work for them. And this includes skipping this snow section for now. Some will do this section later & I think for many that is a very good idea as you can likely beat the North Cascades snow & still make it back in time to walk the Sierra in September minus the big water, big snow & little mosquitoes.
Destination: Agnew Meadows
Starting Location: South of Deer Creek
Today’s Miles: 14.00
Trip Miles: 915.80
South of Deer Creek (900.5, 9200) to Agnew Meadows (914.5, 8360) ascent (1342) descent (1810)
5:50 PM – Inside my tent as rain falls & thunder booms. If I remember right after the lightning you count one one thousandth, two one thousandth, & when you hear the boom you know approximately how far away the lightning is because sound travels at approximately one mile per second. If my buddy Rich Beyak is reading this please put your engineering cap on & let our readers know if I got this right. As you know from working with me Rich I am pretty good at the numbers but I am way too casual in my approach as well as my precision. Regardless, our biggest flash resulted in three one thousandth and thus it was approximately a couple of miles away. And it boomed as to say stay in your tent grasshopper. If you have not been in a mountain thunder storm you have not lived . . . truly awesome.
Just made a quick dash for water between clouds. Saw barbed wire fence and thus clear evidence of livestock management. So I am back to drinking chemicals in my water. Drinking freely from mountain streams over the last several weeks has been a simple pleasure and a powerful commentary on the value of clean drinking water. Speaking of treating water, at VVR I read in the hiker log book a valuable lesson as paraphrased & cleaned up for our younger sensitive readers: when ever you are securing water near a crossing always filter or treat your water because you never know if the last hiker across pooped themselves out of fear during the crossing.
Things worked out so perfectly today. For breakfast I had a great scone and a three musketeer’s bar with the crazy hope that the café or store at Reds Meadow would be open. I knew it was wishful thinking but I have always been a dreamer. The first thing I saw was the stars & stripes flying proudly (always a good sign) & then I saw it on the board outside the empty café: “opening day – welcome to Reds”. Why yes I would like coffee, and pancakes, & eggs over easy with bacon. In fact you better bring an extra side of bacon and a large orange juice. More coffee? Please in fact just leave the pot.
First day for bus service into Reds as well & while enjoying breakfast we see Pang, Swiss Miss & Rita get off the bus. Outside we run, produce our best American yodel, followed by hugs all around. How did you cross the falls at Mono Creek they asked? We answer & ask the same. Different strategies, same results, we are all together again. Off to the camp ground for a soak in the hot spring and more relaxing time as we have 3 days to go 35 miles.
After being persistent in tracking down Lucky Liz at work, I prevailed and reached the best wife in the world. We confirmed a rendezvous in Tahoe in about 10 days – yee ha. Sounds like the house decided to fall apart this week & Liz has been dealing with it. Fortunately my dad & brother-in-law were around to help out with things like water dripping from the ceiling when it was 105 degrees and clearly not raining. I recommended she sell the place & plan on moving to the mountains. She knew I was not kidding, & I think I heard in her voice an “I just might do that”.
Sugar Daddy was able to pick up e-mails via a pay phone & his pocket mail device. We heard Weed has indeed completed the PCT (Congratulations) & is back home helping his clients make money. We also heard from Cheers who is a few days behind us. He said they were having a bit of an easier time then I described & wished us continued success. I am not surprised they are having different experiences because the trail seems to do that & the snow is changing daily if not hourly. For example Sugar Daddy & I placed first tracks on parts of the PCT this morning indicating that those areas were covered as of yesterday. Pang & Swiss Miss described a rather large & a bit scary Deer Springs crossing late in the afternoon. We crossed it this morning & I did not even put my camera & maps into their rain gear.
Oh yea we hiked a few more miles after breakfast – on trail & oh so easy.
Talked to a trail crew from the Inyo National Forest going to work in the wilderness area. This designation, pursuant to the Wilderness Act, means no mechanical means can be used. I love Wilderness. I love the Wilderness designation. I love no mechanical means. But darn it really limits how much work a crew can do. The area in question burned several years ago during one of California’s famous wildfires called the Rainbow fire. This fire burned all of the conifers & those left standing were later sheared off mid trunk during heavy winters (like 2005 & 2006 for example( and so the trail is a series of tree crossings & the crew from the Inyo is clearing them with hand tools consistent with the Wilderness Act requirements. Ever use a two person misery whip saw or an ax for that matter? This city wimp has and one large tree can take a full day or more to clear where a chain saw with a 24” bar and some silence shattering gasoline could do the deed in minutes. Only one viable solution. Keep the Wilderness designation & restrictions fully in tact because any modifications or lessening of requirements by creative law making jeopardizes the entire act and provides precedence for other (say off road vehicle use) modifications. And more volunteers have to learn to swing an ax and pull a misery whip. You will feel good about the blisters you earn & you don’t even need ear plugs.
Heard some trail gossip today about some fledgling romances. Now for journals it is recommended that you not mention on trail romances. I mostly agree with this as gossip in general is, while fun, not particularly polite. What really got me however is that a dominant reason given, as to why not write about them, is that if the person has someone else back home they will not hear about it. What? Now I do not consider myself particularly old fashioned but what kind of crazy BS is this? “Don’t mention my relationship with hiker X, because my boyfriend, girlfriend, husband, wife . . . may find out about it. Hey, do what you want & if you are not in a committed relationship really do what you want. Just don’t ask me to help facilitate the façade that you actually care about someone back home if you don’t. Now back when I did not have a clue what he meant, & long before I actually tried it, a friend told me that people basically do not care about what you say, rather they care about what you do. So if you want to be trusted start being trustworthy, if you want a committed relationship, start being committed. Otherwise it is all talk and no walk – no pun intended.
Speaking of no walk, it is becoming impossible to know who is north & who is south of us because, like 2005, people are developing strategies that work for them. And this includes skipping this snow section for now. Some will do this section later & I think for many that is a very good idea as you can likely beat the North Cascades snow & still make it back in time to walk the Sierra in September minus the big water, big snow & little mosquitoes.

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Destination: South of Deer Creek
Starting Location: 2nd Crossing of the North Fork of Mono Creek
Today’s Miles: 19.50
Trip Miles: 901.80
2nd Crossing of Mono Creek (881, 9325) to South of Deer Creek (900.5, 9200) ascent (4052) descent (4416)
I am totally beat. Nearly 13 hours of hiking, lots of snow, challenging navigation, +8,000 vertical change.
We have a lightning strike fire burning a few miles from us. It is producing a lot of smoke below us and the responsible agencies have been monitoring from a reconnaissance plane. The current thinking on these types of fires is to let them burn unless they have a high likelihood of getting out of control. This policy has numerous biological benefits as well as keeping the fuel load down at a level that will prevent catastrophic fires.
Naturally since Sugar Daddy is without his poncho (Sugartex) it rained on us today. We put Sugar in a trash bag but he soon melted. Fortunately the rain was not heavy.
Our crossing this morning was uneventful as much of the water was bound in snow when we got there. We went over Silver Pass at 8:00 a.m. and the glissading conditions were awesome & we had a previously slid (makes it faster) run of about 300 feet on a 40 degree slope. I was really booking until I got scared and braked with my feet.
I am going to be sore tomorrow as a result of a crazy maneuver I pulled off this morning. I slid down some snow, lost my footing & ended up on some big rocks. Momentum kept me going & I gyrated amongst the rocks until I came to rest on both feet & both trekking poles. I looked like a giraffe getting a drink. I am really glad I did not crash into those rocks, but the contortions I did to avoid it were not natural & body parts went places they had no business going.
Saw our first John Muir Trail (JMT) hikers. The conditions had slowed them down to a point that they had abandoned their plans to complete the JMT. Rather they were going to use their vacation days & get as far as they got.
My sleeping system goes like this: I have a piece of spinnaker cloth for a cowboy camping ground cloth. I also use it under (sometimes) my Rainbow Tarptent. The Rainbow is an awesome tent with a full side opening that provides full views with bug protection. The tent also has a bathtub floor for great rain protection & can be set up free standing (with hiking poles) or with stakes. Henry Shires was right; this is his best tent yet. For a pad I am using what used to be called a Mt Washington pad. Gossamer Gear now sells them & they are great because they do not break down over time & they do not absorb water. Next comes a 15 degree Marmot EQ Helium bag. Awesome down bag with a highly water resistant shell & a full zipper than can be zipped from top or bottom thus allowing chest or feet venting. I wear Patagonia silk weight tops & bottoms each night for added warmth but more importantly added comfort & bag cleanliness. Clammy skin against nylon is not comfortable. The silks fix that. And finally I have a pair of possum wool sleeping socks. Apparently warmer than polartec 200, these socks are toasty & I usually wear them for at least part of the night. I put my wet feet right into them & they heat right up. A few nights I have also worn my down jacket & quite frequently I wear my wind shirt over my silk weights. Tonight I have on a down jacket but it is coming off in a minute. So there it is . . . I am very happy with the system; thus good night
Destination: South of Deer Creek
Starting Location: 2nd Crossing of the North Fork of Mono Creek
Today’s Miles: 19.50
Trip Miles: 901.80
2nd Crossing of Mono Creek (881, 9325) to South of Deer Creek (900.5, 9200) ascent (4052) descent (4416)
I am totally beat. Nearly 13 hours of hiking, lots of snow, challenging navigation, +8,000 vertical change.
We have a lightning strike fire burning a few miles from us. It is producing a lot of smoke below us and the responsible agencies have been monitoring from a reconnaissance plane. The current thinking on these types of fires is to let them burn unless they have a high likelihood of getting out of control. This policy has numerous biological benefits as well as keeping the fuel load down at a level that will prevent catastrophic fires.
Naturally since Sugar Daddy is without his poncho (Sugartex) it rained on us today. We put Sugar in a trash bag but he soon melted. Fortunately the rain was not heavy.
Our crossing this morning was uneventful as much of the water was bound in snow when we got there. We went over Silver Pass at 8:00 a.m. and the glissading conditions were awesome & we had a previously slid (makes it faster) run of about 300 feet on a 40 degree slope. I was really booking until I got scared and braked with my feet.
I am going to be sore tomorrow as a result of a crazy maneuver I pulled off this morning. I slid down some snow, lost my footing & ended up on some big rocks. Momentum kept me going & I gyrated amongst the rocks until I came to rest on both feet & both trekking poles. I looked like a giraffe getting a drink. I am really glad I did not crash into those rocks, but the contortions I did to avoid it were not natural & body parts went places they had no business going.
Saw our first John Muir Trail (JMT) hikers. The conditions had slowed them down to a point that they had abandoned their plans to complete the JMT. Rather they were going to use their vacation days & get as far as they got.
My sleeping system goes like this: I have a piece of spinnaker cloth for a cowboy camping ground cloth. I also use it under (sometimes) my Rainbow Tarptent. The Rainbow is an awesome tent with a full side opening that provides full views with bug protection. The tent also has a bathtub floor for great rain protection & can be set up free standing (with hiking poles) or with stakes. Henry Shires was right; this is his best tent yet. For a pad I am using what used to be called a Mt Washington pad. Gossamer Gear now sells them & they are great because they do not break down over time & they do not absorb water. Next comes a 15 degree Marmot EQ Helium bag. Awesome down bag with a highly water resistant shell & a full zipper than can be zipped from top or bottom thus allowing chest or feet venting. I wear Patagonia silk weight tops & bottoms each night for added warmth but more importantly added comfort & bag cleanliness. Clammy skin against nylon is not comfortable. The silks fix that. And finally I have a pair of possum wool sleeping socks. Apparently warmer than polartec 200, these socks are toasty & I usually wear them for at least part of the night. I put my wet feet right into them & they heat right up. A few nights I have also worn my down jacket & quite frequently I wear my wind shirt over my silk weights. Tonight I have on a down jacket but it is coming off in a minute. So there it is . . . I am very happy with the system; thus good night

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Destination: 2nd Crossing of the North Fork of Mono Creek
Starting Location: Vermilion Valley Resort
Today’s Miles: 3.80
Trip Miles: 882.30
Vermilion Valley Resort (877.2, 7850) to 2nd Crossing of the North Fork of Mono Creek (881, 9325) via the Mono Creek Trail around Edison Lake. 3.8 miles ascent (2842) descent (968)

We actually hiked about 11 miles today because we walked back to the trail instead of taking the ferry. But in order to keep our log consistent with the data book we are only logging miles along the PCT. To be clear, our route into & out of both Muir Trail Ranch & VVR were off the PCT. Both were actually farther hiking miles but that is not the point. As stated when I started, I am hiking a contiguous hike to Canada along the PCT but I may take alternate routes if it is more scenic or offers other advantages. These cases fit the latter. MTR allowed us to stay with our Swiss friends & VVR (via Bear Ridge Trail in & Mono Creek Trail out) allowed us to set our own schedule & save costs by not taking the ferry. When we left VVR my dad offered us the ¼ mile ride to the trail head. I think he was testing us because that ride would have broken our thus far perfect contiguous path. Like I said, when I draw the line at the end I do not want to see any gaps no matter how insignificant they may seem to others. To me it is important. We walked to the trail head.
When we got to the second crossing of Mono Creek I said something to the effect of “you have got to be kidding me”. Okay there may have been a little profanity mixed in as well. During really high flows, & right now they are peaking and they are huge, the trail crosses a ledge between two waterfalls. I got ½ way across while getting absolutely soaked by the spray only to find myself in a jam. I think I had two options to cross. Option one was a quick step and then a leap. Problem was that if I did not make it, go-BIG would have been gone. Surviving the fall down the falls was highly improbable. Option two meant trying to climb up into the upper fall and cross on some rocks while having thousands of gallons of water hitting me from above.
Another problem was that my job on the team is to access crossings not based on my ability but based, in this case, on Sugar Daddy’s ability. I simply have more crossing experience & am a better wader and swimmer. Oh yea, while I was out in the middle freezing, the building thunder storm decided to get it together & produce some thunder, lightning & rain. I turned back. I was pissed. Going up river was not an option as the waterfall was coming down a vertical cliff. We went down the way we camp up and ultimately found a crossing. Now Sugar Daddy’s job was to find us a way to climb (he is a climber) up the other side. He found a route that included some belly work (fun with a pack on) along with some bramble thrashing and a lot of profanity from me. I am sure Sugar was praying while I was swearing. Break: there is a deer just outside my tent. Back! One hour later we were back where I could not cross but we were on the right side this time. Thunder, lightning, rain (not heavy) continued and we figured that the wet shoes, hiking poles, & a carbon fiber/aluminum cylinder (bear box) was not a good combination. We have to cross this bastard one more time first thing in the a.m. Hopefully, with some reduction in flow resulting from freezing above.
The rest at VVR was wonderful & I feel really good today. Breakfast of 3 eggs, 4 bacon, country potatoes, 2 hot cakes & 6 cups of coffee did the body good. I spent $301.00 in VVR & it was worth it to me. I got a room for two nights, I did laundry, & I bought 2 dinners & 2 breakfasts for my dad & I. A lot of money? Yes. But I don’t drink & I don’t smoke & damn it I deserved it.
I just reread Lucky Liz’s letter to me. What a wonderful thing – reading a letter from your wife multiple times. I’m not sure if she would enjoy this level of hiking. Me on the other hand, I love this stuff. And it does not need to get any more difficult. I repeat, it does not need to get any more difficult.
The bonds that are formed on the trail are really strong & Sugar Daddy & I are close trail partners & good friends. As such I would never do or say anything to hurt him, but this getting is unbelievable & I just have to speak up. I told him I could not wait any longer & he conceded that he “mentioned” it in his journal (http://360.yahoo.com/vichansonperu) as well. Sugar Daddy has a gear vortex that we call the Sugartex & at the current rate of gear loss his pack will be empty by Canada & it is possible that he and the pack may disappear as well. The accounting of gear that has thus far been sucked into the Sugartex is as follows: baskets for his hiking poles, nail clippers (returned miraculously by Greener who somehow penetrated the Sugartex) Swiss army knife, gaiters, crampons & finally tonight his poncho which is also his ground cloth/pack cover/rain gear. Oh yea, I have also grabbed a few things just as they were being sucked in. This has always happened as I follow Sugar Daddy, or look around after a break. Fortunately it does not seem to impact those around him but I am short a tent stake . . . hmm.
Today is my 2 month on trail anniversary . . . Happy Anniversary go-BIG.

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Destination: Vermilion Valley Resort
Starting Location: Vermilion Valley Resort
Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 878.50
VVR – Zero
My sister-in-law Loris Ann sent the best homemade scones with my dad. I ate two & locked the others in the bear vault for on trail pleasure & motivation. Lucky Liz sent some almond butter energy bars & the nicest letter. I love & miss that woman.
About 20 hikers in VVR & most walked here. Also looks like about another 24 are farther down the trail. Talking to others & comparing notes is odd because it is as if we are on different trails. Things that were difficult for us, were easy for others & vice versa. A lot has to do with timing (what time on snow, what time did you cross) & level of expertise. One team did manage to go up the wrong pass only to find themselves on a cliff face, while Odie made it from Kennedy Meadows straight through in 7 days. We got in trouble at Bear Creek & others had no difficulty there. So like life, the trail is different for everybody, every day.
My dad did bring some unfortunate news from home. My mom is dealing with some medical problems. And in her never ending supportive way she sent word that if I come off the trail because of it she would strangle me. So I won’t. Instead I will hike stronger in unison with her working hard to bounce right back. My thoughts will be with her every day in every step.
Had a good BBQ dinner with tri-tip, chicken & ribs. I like VVR & think given their location they are providing a very valuable service. That said, if I were to do this again I would likely go: Kennedy Meadows to Muir Ranch to Tuolumne. Now that I think about it more, I simply think I am familiar with VVR & thus it does not provide me much in the way of new experiences. And I would prefer to stay in the mountains to maintain more continuity. That is easy to say after I am rested. My feet are sore & I need to hike to reduce the swelling . . . off we go to infamous Mono Creek Crossing.
Destination: Vermilion Valley Resort
Starting Location: Vermilion Valley Resort
Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 878.50
VVR – Zero
My sister-in-law Loris Ann sent the best homemade scones with my dad. I ate two & locked the others in the bear vault for on trail pleasure & motivation. Lucky Liz sent some almond butter energy bars & the nicest letter. I love & miss that woman.
About 20 hikers in VVR & most walked here. Also looks like about another 24 are farther down the trail. Talking to others & comparing notes is odd because it is as if we are on different trails. Things that were difficult for us, were easy for others & vice versa. A lot has to do with timing (what time on snow, what time did you cross) & level of expertise. One team did manage to go up the wrong pass only to find themselves on a cliff face, while Odie made it from Kennedy Meadows straight through in 7 days. We got in trouble at Bear Creek & others had no difficulty there. So like life, the trail is different for everybody, every day.
My dad did bring some unfortunate news from home. My mom is dealing with some medical problems. And in her never ending supportive way she sent word that if I come off the trail because of it she would strangle me. So I won’t. Instead I will hike stronger in unison with her working hard to bounce right back. My thoughts will be with her every day in every step.
Had a good BBQ dinner with tri-tip, chicken & ribs. I like VVR & think given their location they are providing a very valuable service. That said, if I were to do this again I would likely go: Kennedy Meadows to Muir Ranch to Tuolumne. Now that I think about it more, I simply think I am familiar with VVR & thus it does not provide me much in the way of new experiences. And I would prefer to stay in the mountains to maintain more continuity. That is easy to say after I am rested. My feet are sore & I need to hike to reduce the swelling . . . off we go to infamous Mono Creek Crossing.
Destination: Vermilion Valley Resort
Starting Location: Vermilion Valley Resort
Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 878.50
VVR – Zero
My sister-in-law Loris Ann sent the best homemade scones with my dad. I ate two & locked the others in the bear vault for on trail pleasure & motivation. Lucky Liz sent some almond butter energy bars & the nicest letter. I love & miss that woman.
About 20 hikers in VVR & most walked here. Also looks like about another 24 are farther down the trail. Talking to others & comparing notes is odd because it is as if we are on different trails. Things that were difficult for us, were easy for others & vice versa. A lot has to do with timing (what time on snow, what time did you cross) & level of expertise. One team did manage to go up the wrong pass only to find themselves on a cliff face, while Odie made it from Kennedy Meadows straight through in 7 days. We got in trouble at Bear Creek & others had no difficulty there. So like life, the trail is different for everybody, every day.
My dad did bring some unfortunate news from home. My mom is dealing with some medical problems. And in her never ending supportive way she sent word that if I come off the trail because of it she would strangle me. So I won’t. Instead I will hike stronger in unison with her working hard to bounce right back. My thoughts will be with her every day in every step.
Had a good BBQ dinner with tri-tip, chicken & ribs. I like VVR & think given their location they are providing a very valuable service. That said, if I were to do this again I would likely go: Kennedy Meadows to Muir Ranch to Tuolumne. Now that I think about it more, I simply think I am familiar with VVR & thus it does not provide me much in the way of new experiences. And I would prefer to stay in the mountains to maintain more continuity. That is easy to say after I am rested. My feet are sore & I need to hike to reduce the swelling . . . off we go to infamous Mono Creek Crossing.

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