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Archive for the ‘2006 PCT Trail Journal’ Category

Big ol moon

Destination: Trail 96
Starting Location: Lava Springs
Today’s Miles: 24.30
Trip Miles: 2218.90
Lava Springs (2258.3, 4520) to Trail 96 (2282.6, 5930) ascent (4423) descent (2615)

Some days are just magical – today was one. The day ended with running into 1977 thru hiker & trail advocate Monte Dodge. My reputation for knowing everyone was reinforced & we enjoyed cookies & perfectly ripe peaches while sitting on a ridge in the Goat Rocks Wilderness.
We saw mountain goats on a far ridge & while we could not see more than a white moving shape we were thrilled to see these King of the Rocks.
We also saw a bear today. He was strapped to the back of a backpack that was being carried by a very happy hunter. I was okay with it. In fact I was happy for the guy. In Washington you can not bait or use dogs to hunt bear. So you have to be skilled in the art & skill of hunting. This hunter had 17 days in the field invested before he had a shot. He spotted the bear over 300 meters away in rough terrain & then put a round right under the arm pit & thus through the vital organs. He was packing out 50 lbs of meat, the skin, the paws, and the gall bladder. And that is so much more legitimate than going to your local highly sanitized grocery store & buying hormone enhanced, cellophane packaged meat.
Monte just broke out gala apples from his huge pack – wow.
Goat Rocks is really impressive & we are being blessed with 75 degree weather with blue skies (smoke) & no wind. I am sure that carrying all this winter gear is contributing to our good karma.
After 24 hours to sleep on my decision to officially end my hike at Manning – I like the idea more & more. It is bringing me back into the journey.
Serendipitously, we took advantage of the weather and camped high in the wilderness. With a view of Mt Adams to the south and Goat Rocks to our east. Thunder saw it first & soon we were all looking east in awe as the moon rose. And not just any moon, but a full moon. And not just any full moon but the brightest full moon of the entire year. According to the paper Andy had read at Trout Lake the moon was 14 – 17% bigger & brighter due to its closer orbit to the earth. Anyway, it was huge & bright – another small thing that is actually incredible if you take the time to look.

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Benadryl again

Destination: Lava Springs
Starting Location: Trout Lake Creek
Today’s Miles: 25.90
Trip Miles: 2194.60
Trout Lake Creek (2232.5, 3110) to Lava Springs (2258.3, 4520) ascent (4744) descent (3560)

It must have been quite a site as I tried to run through a heavily vegetated under story with my silk weight long underwear around my ankles. I was just getting into position when the local tribe of wasp decided they were going to do something about my planned waste disposal project in their neighborhood. Sting 1 – right thumb, sting 2 – right ankle, sting 3 – left wrist, sting 4 – right calf, sting 5 – right thigh. I took my project across town and then hurried back to camp. Best piece of equipment on the trail? No question – benadryl. I quickly got to the pills, asked Thunder to stand by and sat down as the sweat began to pour off my forehead. The stings were swelling faster than zucchini grows and boy did they hurt. We packed up and headed up the trail. With 5 stings & 3 benadryl in me I would have been the perfect zombie for one of the classic “Dawn of the Dead” B horror movies. And now they itch like crazy. We do this for fun you know.
Lava Springs is impressive with gallons of ice cold water flowing out of the bottom of a lava field. The water is so cold I could not keep my hand under while I washed them. And it tastes good . . . We have a great spot just above the spring & I can hear the water flowing under & through the rocks.
My hike, if I make it, is going to officially end at the monument. Yes, I rewrote my rules & I am so happy I did. I have had a classic case of summit fever and thanks to the help from Rolling Thunder I really see it clearly. I set out to hike a contiguous hike along the PCT between Mexico & Canada. Well that became impossible with the fire closure. I have been bummed and decided the way to deal with it would be to go hike the closed section immediately after I reached Canada. Thus I have been focusing too much on the goal (summit) and not the journey. This thinking always leads to disappointment because if I write a story and the story is not implemented perfectly my expectations are not met & I am disappointed. Wrong thinking.
I have had the summer of my life and to be disappointed is simply crap. So I wrote the rules & now I am changing them. I am now hiking the PCT from Mexico to Canada – and oh yea part of the trail was closed when I got there and so I had to miss it. Oh sure I will hike that section. In fact I will likely do it after our family reunion in mid October. But, if I make it to Canada I am not going to stand at the monument and say “well this is nice but I am not done”. Rather I plan to scream my lungs out that I hiked the PCT from Mexico to Canada. No asterisk, no qualifiers. This change in perspective has been great & as a result now Thunder & I are planning on slowing down a bit. Planning on taking a few more zeros and enjoying our last weeks on the trail rather than trying to figure out crazy logistics of getting back to Oregon and through a section that is likely to still be closed. On mountains, summit fever kills people. On the trail, summit fever takes you out of the now and has you projecting into the future. But the now is the only thing that is of real importance. I can not change the past, nor can I always meet my expectations for the future. What I can do, is live for the present.

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Home schooling

Destination: Trout Lake Creek
Starting Location: Crest Campground
Today’s Miles: 25.90
Trip Miles: 2168.70
Crest Campground (2206.6, 3470) to Trout Lake Creek (2232.5, 3310) ascent (3264) descent (3219)

Andy & I gave an impromptu hiking class at the urging of a Christian home schooling class that was learning backcountry skills. It was fun fielding questions & the kids were great & showed real interest. As we headed on they insisted that their van, located at the trail head, was open & we were to help ourselves. We all have plenty of food but when they mentioned a box of fresh pears we were hooked. It was a bit odd opening someone’s car & helping our self to their food but the pears were awesome. We stayed around until they returned and talked to the kids some more. Good stuff – good memory.
I finally ate a complete pint of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream in one sitting while we were at Weed’s. 1080 calories of chocolate chip cookie dough. Yum. Not to belabor the food thing but that day was interesting because I did not think much about it. But at 5 pm 3 of us split a large pizza. At 7:30 pm I ate a 4 item combination plate of Mexican food with two baskets of chips, and at 9:00 I ate the ice cream. Oh yea, I am still losing weight.
Been discussing who hikes the trail and we have boiled it down to two primary groups: first, a small group of thru-hikers are what we are calling lifestyle hikers. They are travelers & adventurers & the PCT is another big trip. Swiss Miss falls into this category along with Rita. The other and far larger category is those in transition. From what to what is as varied as imaginable but people in transition are drawn to the trail as nearly everyone out here is figuring out “what next”. Now Andy being a philosophy major, argues that by definition everyone is in transition who is hiking. Thunder & I think that is more of an academic argument & believe we can state “transition” as a very relevant part of many if not most hikers. Some have found the answer & they are making plans to implement. Others are not sure what the question is yet. For me I have confirmed my decision to leave corporate life. Beyond confirmation I am happy to report that I know with perfect clarity that it was the right decision. What next? Not sure exactly but building our new “home” is a priority. Family now takes a top place on my list of important things. Giving back to something that is worth it will also be in my future.

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Destination: Crest Campground
Starting Location: Near Road 41
Today’s Miles: 25.30
Trip Miles: 2142.80
Near Road 41 (2180.9, 2982) to Crest Campground (2206.6, 3470) ascent (4508) descent (3963)

84 degrees, 70% humidity, 8 miles, 3100 feet of climbing, 5 days of food, 2 liters of water, drenched in sweat, hammer down 100% for 3 hours at aerobic threshold – yea baby I am back.
Lost Rolling Thunder today. He had some more personal business to attend to and even though we stopped at 6:40 he never made it in. I am not worried about him physically as he is one of the most competent outdoorsman on the PCT, but I am concerned about how he is doing. Life is often complicated, and Thunder is definitely experiencing that.
Some hikers walked the road to Stablers to avoid the big climb and save 13 miles. This required a 20 mile road walk on the shoulder of a busy secondary road. HYOH, but the point of that escapes me.
Lucky Liz & I had a difference of opinion the other day on the phone. I wanted to go back & finish Oregon & she wanted me to make it to a family reunion. We hung up without resolution. Afterwards I told Andy & Thunder that I loved being married to Liz because I knew it would all work out. Later when I called back I told Liz that I knew the reunion was important & I would make it, but before I could finish she said she knew that finishing was important and I should get to the reunion when I get there. When each person compromises because they choose to out of respect for the other’s wishes, you have a recipe for success. Not sure what we will ultimately decide but it will work out for the best and hopefully all competing objectives can be met.

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Lets climb

Destination: Near Road 41
Starting Location: Cascade Locks
Today’s Miles: 25.00
Trip Miles: 2117.50
Cascade Locks (2155.6, 200) to Near Road 41 (2180.9, 2982) ascent (6444) descent (3645)

If you want to have a really interesting conversation while hiking 25 miles with a 10,000 foot vertical change, hike with someone who has an undergraduate degree with a double major in Philosophy & Greek History from Bates and a masters in Computer Science from Brown University. We basically solved the worlds’ problems today & when I am king I plan to implement the program immediately. Andy is a really great guy and is one of those scary smart types who is well read and knowledgeable on an amazing suite of topics. Thunder was absent as he had some personal emails to attend to. Then he lucked out and Scott Williamson (yoyo hiker) came into the café. Now we have a really good trail condition update. Scott is doing okay but has an ingrown toenail and is going to Portland to have it removed. I wish him well & hope he makes it.
Speaking of people, the other night we walked until dark to find the only flat spot for miles. When we got there other tents were pitched but they had the thru-hiker look so we set up right next to their tents. In the a.m., I noticed the other tents & gear were super ultra light beyond most thru-hikers. Then I saw 5 Gossamer Gear packs and said good morning to Glen Van Peski (Gossamer Gear founder) & Irish (who we hiked with in Southern California) along with their friends who were hiking Washington & Oregon. Small world on the PCT.
Was thinking about where I got my keep moving forward tendencies. I do not know for sure but I do remember an incident that likely pointed towards the past & the future. When I was a kid, my dad & I would box. This was always a lot of fun until one day when I must have been 12 or 13. We were boxing and things got a bit rough and after being knocked down a few times I got more ticked and more aggressive. Finally as I remember it, he knocked me down hard & told me to stay down. No chance. As I got up, he then took off the gloves and walked away. We never boxed again. A few years later, Private Braggs from Chicago broke my nose after I foolishly but quickly agreed to enter a boxing ring with a golden glove boxer to resolve our differences. My nose broke instantly on the first punch; I was blind with watering eyes & blood but was getting up when he too walked away. I don’t seem to learn real fast.
The forest here is right out of Jurassic Park & finding a campsite devoid of massively thick vegetation was impossible. We are camped on an abandoned jeep road. The ferns, azaleas & hardwood are intertwined and everything not living and some things that are living are covered in moss. We are not in the desert – that’s for sure. But the weather was hot & humid to the point we swam, okay jumped in & out, of Rock Creek to cool off.
The leg is at 80% and that is fantastic. I know for sure that Catholics, Evangelicals, & Jews all put in prayers. We joked I needed a Muslim as well but my Muslim friends are all back in Sacramento and likely do not know I was hurt. Regardless, this is definitely better and I seriously want to thank each of you for your kind words & prayers. Something worked. Oh yea, I kept talking to the mountains as well and they certainly seemed liked they were listening.
Wump, wump, wump. When I looked up a mature bald eagle had come around the corner of Rock Creek with a clear intention of landing on the beach we were on. When he saw us he had to abort quickly & climb out of the canyon. What a bird, but not the best at last minute changes of flight plans.

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Destination: Vancouver, WA
Starting Location: Cascade Locks Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 2092.50
Cascade Locks / Vancouver, WA – Zero

Our buddy Weed, who hiked a large section with us in Southern California, picked us up at the Salmon Pub last night and took us to his house. It was great to see Weed again and over food we caught up on our adventures & mutual friends.
The leg is better but I am very timid to put full weight on it. We are taking today off to let it continue to heal. I am also trying to minimize the anti inflammation medication I am taking due to potential negative side effects. “A bleeding GI tract is worse than a sore shin.”
For over a thousand miles we have left snake lines in the trail to let each other (friends) know which way we went at an intersection. These lines help with navigation but more importantly when I was alone and hurting they reminded me of who made the way point & I always smiled and kept going with new inspiration. Some times the snakes had faded but with examination, I always found the faint hint of these friendly lines in the trail.
We took a food drop up to Stablers Store via more support from Weed. This allows us to break up a 7 day section into a 2 and a 5 day trek while taking weight off my leg.
I looked at my origin al schedule & was surprised to see I was in Cascade Locks on my original proposed date. If that holds I could still make Canada before October 1st and hopefully the snow.

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Holly shit

Destination: Cascade Locks
Starting Location: N/Huckleberry trail
Today’s Miles: 26.20
Trip Miles: 2092.50

Huckleberry Mt. Trail (2,128.8, 4068) to Cascade Locks (2,155.0, 240) Ascent (2,572) Descent (6,329)
The Eagle Creek Trail alternate route was another trip highlight. We heard it was nice, but our expectations were neutral. Over the course of our journey, we have learned that most things are completely subjective and are based on expectations. Therefore, we try to stay neutral and see how things develop rather than be biased on preconceived notions formulated by others’ experience. When we rounded the corner, Rolling Thunder and I both had a “holly shit” comment and Andy, who was right behind, knew we must be there. The waterfall fell off a perfectly vertical face and was surrounded by ferns that were constantly misted by the spray. The trail was cut out of the vertical wall and actually was tunneled behind the falls. I have seen some beautiful waterfalls before, yet this one, combined with a hike of the PCT is the hands down winner.
Above Indian Springs, I threw my hands into the air and yelled “bring it on!” as I braced against a 60 knot wind with gusts likely over 70 knots. It was wild, Rolling Thunder and I screamed to each other about how awesome the weather was. Our vision was completely blurred as our eyes watered while walking directly into the gale. It’s good to be alive.

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Destination: N/Huckleberry trail
Starting Location: Timberline Lodge Today’s Miles: 21.50
Trip Miles: 2066.30
Timberline Loge (2,107.3, 5940) to N/Huckleberry Trail (2,128.8, 4068) Ascent (3,599) Descent (5499)

Timberline Lodge turned out to be a special stop and provided a needed diversion from the realities of recent trail life. We enjoyed a great buffet breakfast and enjoyed pots of coffee served by a staff who were particularly friendly as we grazed for 90 minutes.

Yesterday’s drizzly weather gave way to an absolutely stunning day today. Mount Hood beamed with a dusting of early season snow. We could see as far south as the Three Sisters (likely 100 miles away) and looking north we saw spectacular volcanoes who shapes we have yet to recognize.

Talked to a respected friend today who pointed out that walking 2,650 miles in two seasons is still walking 2,650 miles. He also pointed out that “If I needed to be a hero, he understood that as well.” Given that I cringed at those words I know he hit a cord and realized herodom is a factor. I have often fantasized that by far the best way to go out would be as a hero – even if only in my own mind. I have also feared the idea of living a safe life safe while never really going for it. Sure I have had a lot of professional good fortune, but I can honestly say that I have never really swung for the fence. Rather, I worked really hard and always held some in reserve. This hike is different as I have given it everything I have. If I make it, I will be my own hero because I know I finally swung all the way. If I quit now – today I could not say that. Sure I have given it everything thus far, but unless I am absolutely incapable of continuing it will mean (to me) I checked my swing late in the game. I do not want to do this, I must not do this. There are only two options – make it, or go down swinging. Period. Some family and friends have expressed concerns that regarding “at what price.” I cannot answer that, but I can say we are not there yet.
Camped in a hole next to a spring and boy I am glad we are down low. The wind is blowing a gale in the tree tops a few hundred feet above and the noise is getting pretty intense. Pine needles are blowing into the tent and it sounds like heavy rain falling. Weather is wild and makes me feel alive.

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Destination: Timberline Lodge
Starting Location: Slope of Summit Butte
Today’s Miles: 31.20
Trip Miles: 2044.80
Slope of Summit Butte (2076.1, 4291) to Timberline Lodge (2107.3, 5940) ascent (4491) descent (2772)

I thought incorrectly, my shin is not cooperating and it was a tough afternoon both physically & emotionally. Every part of me feels good & I want to hike & yet my leg does not move . . . ugh!#!
Regardless, I made it to Timberline as the sun set over Mt Jefferson & the clouds lifted long enough to see Mt Hood whose beautiful slope I was walking on. The lodge is most impressive and has a timber frame construction that includes the largest timbers I have ever seen in use. The rock work is a masterpiece of masonry talent & the food was really good. We got a great little room with a bunk bed & a sink. The bath is down the hall. We just enjoyed a soak in the hot tub & are taking advantage of the complimentary laundry. I really like this place. Thunder, as usual in town, is on the internet down the hall.

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Destination: Slope of Summit Butte
Starting Location: Olallie Lake Resort
Today’s Miles: 23.00
Trip Miles: 2013.6
Olallie Lake Resort (2053.1, 4950) to Slope of Summit Butte (2076.1, 4291) ascent (2631) descent (3327)

Sore but it feels different. Limping but it feels different. Frustrating but it feels different. I think my shin may be showing some signs of healing.
Hiked with Andy, Token Civilian, & Thunder. Good lively conversation about a viable 3rd political party option as well as artificial intelligence – where it is and where it is going.
Well it is official I am no longer hiking a contiguous hike along the PCT between Mexico and Canada. Two forest fires have made that quest impossible for me and I had to postpone hiking 63.6 miles of trail between McKenzie Pass & Olallie Lake Resort. My option was a 90 mile road walk. I contemplated this option with the silly reasoning that my hike was less pure if I went around & then came back. Fortunately two friends pointed out two very important facts. Gottago: You wrote the rule; rewrite it to fit the circumstance. Crazy Horse: Are you crazy man? Roads are for cars. So dad drove us the 90 miles to get around the absolutely closed & likely dangerous fires. I now plan to continue on to Canada & hike the missed section on my way home. I was very disappointed in this approach until we started hiking today. Then it hit me – just another part of this year’s hike. For convenient logistical purposes, I am going to stay with the data book mileages as the miles we have traveled. If you don’t like that, you can do the math yourself each time by subtracting 63.6 miles from my total miles logged. I mentioned to Numskull that the Canadian Monument will likely be anticlimactic now that I would not be truly done. He also gave me that “are you crazy” look and I realized yes I am. I put these insane demands on myself & then I have to do it perfect or it does not count for anything. Regardless of the fact that the damn forest is closed & just a bit beyond my infinite control. I love being a type A personality. The A really is for anal. How ridiculous can you get – anticlimactic after hiking 2,650 miles less 63.6 of course.
Quote of the day: Andy – what do you do in your other life go-BIG? go-BIG: I am a bum. Andy: Cool, we are in the same line of work. A 43 year old retired consultant and a 33 year old retired software engineer. Write your own rules in life and change them whenever you want. If I go back to work am I still retired? Who cares, for now I am a bum and having the time of my life.
Dad said he did not understand my journal entry that had a bread recipe. There is nothing to understand dad. Some great people shared a family bread recipe with me & I in turn shared it with you. No hidden meaning but the answer to all of life’s questions is still trout.

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