Robert Francisco

Destination: Creek below Suiattle Pass
Starting Location: Fire Crrrk
Today’s Miles: 26.20
Trip Miles: 2492.60
Fire Creek (2529.1, 5370) to Creek below Suiattle Pass (2555.3, 5730) ascent (8248) descent (7667)

We are 100.1 miles from Canada – holy crap batman we are getting close.
The only way to make today colder than yesterday was to add some wind – so that is what happened. My sleeping bag was dryer when I woke up than when I went to bed so my plan worked out well. And it is still raining steady tonight. I have my tent pitched so tight that the drops are bouncing and falling again. It is so wet.
This wilderness is one of the best however and actually it is how I pictured it; big mountains, green from moisture, and glacier fed rivers. We made it across the real PCT route. The flood damage is remarkable and if you ever think humans can control nature, walk this route. We had to cross a lot of downed trees & scramble down some steep slopes while using branches for support. The trail has fallen off the mountains in many spots & we had to navigate around. The infamous Suiattle River was running thigh deep & there was a log for crossing. I chose to wade & the boys walked down stream to the log. The wading was straight forward except the Suiattle is milky due to glacial till and thus you can not see into the water. Given my feet are growing webbing anyway I figured why use the log.
Raining good now.
I love my wife more as a result of this trip. Not because “absence makes the heart grow fonder” but because I appreciate her so much more. I am very fortunate to have such a woman as my life partner.
I sure would like to be at the beach right now with my feet in the warm sand . . . I am starting to shiver again.
It is probably because we are getting close, but I am getting tired. Physically I am beyond my hiking peak which happened around Mt Shasta. At that point I was totally fit & going strong. Now I am doing great but my legs are losing muscle now and the endurance is off a bit as well. Then again 8,000+ feet of climbing in these conditions might make anyone tired.
Hands are shaking too much to write anymore, going deep into bag yet again

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Destination: Trapper Creek Campground
Starting Location: Trapper Creek Campground
Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 1913.30
Trapper Creek Campground – Zero

Linda & Ron, my campground neighbors, invited me over for coffee & fresh huckleberry pie for breakfast. Amazing is the only way to describe that pie. I also secured a family bread recipe that was hand written in the early part of the last century by Josephine Castellanos. Here it is:
1 cake compressed yeast (about 1.25 packets in today’s terms)
½ cup sugar
1 tsp salt
2 cups lukewarm water
1 egg
7 cups flour
3 T. shortening.
Crumble yeast into large mixing bowl. Add sugar, salt, and water. Add well beaten egg. Sift flour once before measuring. Add half flour & beat well. Add melted shortening and mix in remainder of flour. Let rise to double its bulk. Punch down. Cover tightly & place in Frigidaire. About 1 hour before baking, remove desired amount of dough. Shape into rolls & place on greased pan. Use gem pans for clover leaf rolls. Let rise slowly to double their bulk, then bake in hot oven (425) for 20 – 25 minutes. This dough can be kept in Frigidaire and used from as desired. Shapes may be prepared in the morning and placed back in Frigidaire to be ready for quick baking. Allow just enough time for the dough to rise & the rolls to bake so that they will come from the oven piping hot.

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Destination: Trapper Creek Campground
Starting Location: Shelter Cove
Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 1913.30
Trapper Creek Campground – Zero

I got up early with the hikers who were heading to Canada. My leg is absolutely trashed and I hobbled to the outhouse. Not wanting to be there when they walked off, I said quick goodbyes & wished my friends luck on their journey. The scene was awkward until Thunder over dramatized the situation and we all laughed. I slowly walked over to the resort, ordered a latte, and called Lucky Liz. I thought I was okay but when I explained the situation I began to cry. I have worked so hard to get here. She was great as always and agreed to come pick me up, and take me to Sisters, Oregon in hopes I can walk again after 5 days rest. Called mom & dad as well and they were quick to point out that “we” will finish next year if need be. Mom had been real sick again due to dehydration after chemo but she is fighting hard & staying positive.
Bill and Karen, the Trapper Creek camp hosts, helped me move to a smaller spot, brought me a chair so I could elevate my leg, and told me to hobble over at 5 pm for a BBQ steak dinner.
Before dinner, Bill said grace and asked God for some help with healing my leg so I could continue my journey. I quietly said amen and did not feel awkward at all. I figured any potential help was certainly welcome.
New York steak, fried potatoes, corn on the cob, & salad were served to perfection & we enjoyed a nice evening. Karen commented that she knew I had to be totally bummed as my friends hiked on and she was glad they were able to fill in a small part of the void I must be feeling. Great people – thank you.
As I write this I reach over from the picnic table and pick perfectly ripe huckleberries by the handful. They are delicious and remind me that everything is exactly as it is supposed to be.
My hike had turned into a journey where as my life would start over after Manning Park. It was as if I was on an ocean and if I did not get there (to shore) I would most certainly perish at sea. At some point today I realized I was still on land. Yes, I am bummed beyond compare. However sometimes in life it is how you deal with disappointment that really develops you as a person. My hike may be over for 2006 but I am not done with any aspect of my life, so I will move on. A friend used to tell me that “out of seemingly bad, always comes good – always”. This setback will be no different.
I know for sure that even if I get back on the trail this year I will not be able to keep pace with my friends. So I will not try because they would slow down and potentially jeopardize their hikes. And I would have to skip ahead to do so. I plan to go to McKenzie Pass with Liz, pick up the gang & go to Sisters. Then I will rest another day & evaluate. From Shelter Cove, Elk Lake Resort is 44 miles and I may try to do that section in say 3 days as a test to my legs ability to carry me & my ability to endure a bit of discomfort.
Bill is learning to play the fiddle and practices each evening. He is pretty rough but he plays away & watching his efforts reminds me that it is the trying that is important. At this point I have given it my best shot and I will continue to do so. I could sure use some good luck about now as well.

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Destination: Shelter Cove
Starting Location: Shelter Cove Resort
Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 1913.30
Shelter Cove – Zero

Sunny, Tadpole the hippo, & Rolling Thunder opted to take a day off as well in hopes my leg would miraculously heal. We stayed at the Trapper Creek federal campground adjacent to Shelter Cove Resort. Everyone slept a lot, organized gear, and called friends & loved ones. I was down most of the day as I came to realize I would not be able to push on tomorrow. I can barely walk without a pack and the pain is excruciating. The bruise option looks nearly impossible at this point.
Chris & Gina, section hikers from Australia who we have met several times before, joined us in the afternoon. Tracker also showed up after spending a few slower days hiking with his father. Gina described a remarkably similar injury she suffered last year after hiking all of California. Her diagnosis was unfortunately a stress fracture and the consensus is growing that my injury is likely as serious.
The people in the campground are wonderful & we easily secured a ride to Willamette Pass to pick up take out pizza. We had a bit of a party but it felt more like a wake to me.

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Destination: Shelter Cove Resort
Starting Location: Summit Lake
Today’s Miles: 18.20
Trip Miles: 1913.30
Summit Lake (1894, 5510) to Shelter Cove Resort (1912.2, 5003) ascent (1998) descent (2762)

Toughest miles of the entire trip with 12 miles of down hill. My stubbornness was either an asset or a liability today. Yes I made it in – good. Yes I am now totally broken physically – I can not walk. My doctor who I talked with on the telephone has two possible diagnoses. One – a bruised shin resulting in a subsurface hematoma that is irritated by walking – painful, but not a huge deal. Two – stress fracture to the tibia or fibia that is causing a hematoma because of bleeding around the break. Big damn problem & potential deal breaker. Tomorrow I rest and maybe even pray a bit. Double damn.
Oh yea, the scenery was nice when I looked up.

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Destination: Summit Lake
Starting Location: Before Howlock Trail Today’s Miles: 30.50
Trip Miles: 1895.10
Howlock Trail (1863.5, 7057) to Summit Lake (1894.0, 5510) ascent (1859) descent (3110)

With my teeth clenched and breathing through my nose I limped the last eight miles into camp. Somehow a simple day went very bad. Coming down a hill around mile 20 I felt a slight pain in my right shin. It felt like a shin splint and I slowed down a bit. Two miles later I was limping and in a lot of pain. 800 mg of vitamin I took the sharpest edge off, but it hurt really bad and I winced on each step of the down hills. Have no idea what the problem is but it is not going away quickly, of that I am sure. Damn.

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Destination: Before Howlock Trail
Starting Location: Past Rim Drive Today’s Miles: 21.50
Trip Miles: 1864.60
Past Rim Drive (1842, 7057) to Before Howlock Trail (1863.5, 7306) ascent (4173) descent (3970)

Truthfully, my balls were in my throat as I pulled myself up the last 80 feet of Mt Thielsen Pinnacle Summit. Sunny, an accomplished climber, had advised us to not go up anything without looking to ensure we could get ourselves down, and Rolling Thunder gave me a 10 second lesson on 3 points of contact at all times. I would have never tried this alone but my friends helped me summit a route that is reported to be the toughest scramble in Oregon. Both Sunny & Thunder were surprised the route was advertised as not needing ropes and commented that it was as difficult as you would want to without rope safety. And it was awesome! I was so excited as I summated first while Thunder coached me on the route from below. Then came Thunder & Tadpole who was being coached by Sunny. The 4 of us on top of an amazing pinnacle of rock. I will never forget this experience and those who helped me achieve something I did not think I could do.
The quote of the day: Tadpole – “what if farting was considered attractive?” Sunny – “Then you would be a super model”.
New Balance shoes are not making the grade on this hike. In the desert they were okay but were shot at 400 miles. In the rough volcanic rocks of Oregon my current pair is trashed after 200 miles. The Montrail Hardrocks, that Thunder is wearing, in contrast are wearing great I will switch to Hardrocks in Sisters and anticipate 1 pair will take me across all of Washington.
We talked a lot today about where we each draw our ethical lines & how the decisions are made. I decided not to camp on the rim of Crater Lake as it is against park rules. In contrast I crossed a fire closure area & I camped at Deep Creek (also prohibited). Each one of these decisions was completely conscious. I do not feel good about being selective regarding which rules I follow yet I will continue to do so. I think being mindful is the key while evaluating my own ethics in each situation that comes up. Once again a continuum of options is available & we each choose our own spot on the continuum which we are comfortable with.

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Destination: Past Rim Drive
Starting Location: Crater Lake Trailhead Today’s Miles: 11.60
Trip Miles: 1843.10
Mazama (1830.4, 6108) to Past Rim Drive (1842.0, 7057) ascent (2690) descent (1660)

The Rim Trail around Crater Lake was a highlight of this trip & the PCT. What a beautiful lake – the blue is so blue it is hard to describe & Wizard Island, the volcano inside the caldera, is simply cool.
Met a motorcyclist on the rim who had come from Prudhoe Bay Alaska on his way home to Argentina. We said he was crazy and he returned the compliment.
I learned about a Bassoon from the Hippo who plays one. How cool is that. It has two reeds, is a woodwind, and is difficult to play. It also closely matches the range of the human voice.
We stopped at the Rim Lodge in our formal hiker wear. We ordered salads with candied walnuts & crumbled cheese along with seafood chowder. We ate on the deck and smiled broadly at everyone wearing expensive polo shirts who looked at us with distaste. It is our National Park also – maybe even more so.
go-BIG

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Destination: Crater Lake Trailhead
Starting Location: Water before Honeymoon
Today’s Miles: 22.40
Trip Miles: 1831.50
Water before Honeymoon Creek (1808, 6650) to Crater Lake Trailhead (1830.4, 6108) ascent (2425) descent (2838)

Wow. Barney & Sandy built up an incredible amount of good trail karma for their 2007 attempt. They thought of everything (extra clothes for while we showered, laundry soap, shampoo…) & then they treated us to a wonderful buffet dinner at the Mazama Restaurant. The food was excellent, the generosity incredible & the formation of new friendships was wonderful.
Lucked out & reached Liz who was supposed to be at the Outdoor Retailer show but cancelled as air travel was apparently a complete nightmare. As our feel good security confiscated water bottles. We had a lovely chat. I told her about our house plans and she was excited to see the drawings. She told me about taking some friends hiking along with their 7 & 10 year old daughters. Sounds like they had a magical trip & the 7 year old said that she loved the wilderness. The 10 year old said she wanted to spend the night next time. All right – let’s get the next generation out here; it is good for the people & the land and likely our only hope for a sustainable future.
Nice hiking today with Sandy & Barney who thought we waked a wee bit fast. They are both very interesting people who you just want to spend more time with. Barney is very active in scouting and I was so encouraged to hear how his local program does not promote discrimination as articulated by the national leadership. Hearing first hand accounts of Muslims & Jews participating in scouting together warmed my heart & I am grateful to men like Barney who are giving their time to promote such tolerance while drawing an appropriate boundary. Sandy is a high school biology teacher and I could not help but think “where was that passion & dedication at my high school?” Maybe it was there & I was blind. Regardless teachers like Sandy rock!
I am really enjoying hiking with Sunny, Tadpole the hippo & Thunder. We all get along swell & the decision making is super collaborative & flexible. I miss Pang, Swiss Miss & Sugar Daddy & should see them tomorrow.

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Destination: Water before Honeymoon
Starting Location: Highway 140
Today’s Miles: 27.40
Trip Miles: 1809.10
Highway 140 (1780.6, 498.4) to Water before Honeymoon (180.8, 6650) ascent (3927) descent (2247)

Being self conscious about my half burned off beard I walked through the forest thinking of solutions. And the forest provided the answer – lichen. I took a big bunch and worked it into my beard – kind of like adding synthetic hair to corn rows. It must have been a huge success based on the number of photos taken once I rejoined the group. On the trail you must be able to improvise. I removed my beard piece and put it in a safe place so I can readily apply in Crater Lake in order to blend in with the summer vacation crowd.
I have been hearing about Bonnie & Sandy for nearly six weeks from Thunder. They hosted him in San Diego, and Sandy’s parents Dick & Irene provided us magic way back at Ebbets Pass. Given we are supposed to meet them today I sought to verify that Bonnie is the woman & Sandy is the guy right? Who is Bonnie, his name is Bonnie Thunder replied and his wife’s name is Sandy. Okay a guy named Bonnie? Finally Sunny helped out and reminded me that our friend from the south island of New Zealand does not pronunciate “R’. And thus I was prepared to meet out trail angels Barney & Sandy.
Not knowing what trail they might hike in on, Thunder took the Sky Lakes Trail & Sunny, Tadpole & I stayed on the PCT. We got it right and thus got the homemade chocolate cookies before Thunder arrived. We are all camped together & will hike into Crater Lake where Barney & Sandy will help us tremendously with our resupply needs.
The trail broke out of the trees today and we had a beautiful ridge walk where we could still view out old friend Mt Shasta. We have been seeing that volcano for nearly 3 weeks now & today should have been our last view. I am going to miss her but falling from view signals northern progress.
Met my first government official on the trail today. It took 1805 miles. Super nice guy monitoring the trail conditions & ensuring forest rule compliance. He commented that they see very few problems with PCT hikers & that made me happy. Didn’t even ask for our permits & sent us on our way with warm wishes for a successful journey.
Met some long distance section hikers today and noted a phenomenon we have seen before. The woman was really beat up with bad blisters and we easily recognized the painful walk. When we asked how far they were going they commented that they “had” to make it to Cascade Locks. We suggested they consider slowing down in order to let her feet heal and they repeated that they had to make ti to Cascade Locks because that was the plan and they needed to hike 21 miles per day to do it. Now we are all obviously goal driven as we head to Canada but these aggressive section hikers seem even more so. Go to Sisters or Timberline Lodge – do 15 miles & enjoy yourselves more. Our group does not have to be to Canada on any particular day & I am really glad about that as we are driven but more flexible. We came to a nice spot and someone suggested we stop. Everyone thought that was a swell idea. About 15 minutes later the injured hiker walked by with 3 more miles to go that she “had” to do.
Foot seemed better today even if only slightly – good sign. I have slowed my pace & am soaking my foot when possible.
Shooter wanted to interview us and so we waited after two hours of hiking. Unfortunately we forget how fast we hike and after waiting 40 minutes we moved on. Rainskirt later told us Shooter turned back after about 5 miles. We had gone nearly 7 miles in two hours before our first break. Hiking machines. We entered Oregon Tuesday (4 days ago with a half day off in Ashland) and we have walked 20% of the state.

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