Kathmandu, Nepal
Kathmandu skyline
Steamed vegetable momos and a coke from a bottle that is so worn it is nearly opaque – now this is living; 65 rupees. Momo are like dumplings or maybe think of a pot-stickers that are steamed rather than fried. Served with a spicy peanut sauce and eaten immediately out of the steamer basket. We scored these at a place no bigger than a closet with a curtain for a door, and a few broken stools along a wall that had a board attached above to serve as plate and soda shelf. This was certainly out of my comfort zone, but Patrick who is a Burmese American, from Sacramento of all places, was confident; “They are so hot, nothing can live through that”. Best meal of my trip.
Because it is festival time in Nepal, we had to check several banks to find cash; a lot of locals are moving about the country creating a paper money shortage as they make withdrawals from the banks. Hey, at least they trust their banks with their money.
I needed cash as I am leaving the city tomorrow and entering a completely cash economy.
My first trek is to Langtang. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Langtang ,and thus you will not see any updates to this journal for several weeks. I am going as an independent with a porter/guide named Anjin who just last week passed his guide license. He is a small man in stature standing about 5’2” and weighing maybe 120lbs, but clearly of man of big heart and strength. Now my kit is light, but when Anjin assured me that he could easily carry 30 Kilo over any pass in the Himalaya I new he was not kidding. I told him I was out of shape and was viewing this as a 14 day warm up trek, to which he replied “That will not be a problem sir, if you get tired I will carry you also”. I then inquired if I needed a map to which he replied “oh no Sir, these are my mountains, I know them”.
Patrick, Anjin, and I went on a bit of a shopping trip together as it has been recommended that we treat our water with Iodine rather then buy the plastic bottles. This recommendation is two fold: First, someone has to carry that plastic water into those mountains therefore it is expensive. Second, most of those damn plastic bottles never get carried out resulting in a huge environmental problem. I like how these guys are thinking. So, I needed a metal water bottle because in addition to Iodine, sometimes you get boiling water poured into the bottle which also serves as a purification measure; plastic will not work. Though the back streets we roamed until we came to a small outfitter who had what we needed. And because Anjin was with us, no negotiation needed-the first price was the good and more than fair price.
After we dropped Anjin off, Patrick and I went to explore the back alleys of Kathmandu. We had a good time and went down a few streets that are best left to traveling with two or more. It was wildly interesting, the people were all smiles and gracious while we discussed the advantages and disadvantages of these types of communities verses the west. Patrick, being from Burma, had an incredible perspective as he has lived on both sides of this equation. He loves California with its independence and valued self promotion but is concerned that the trade off regarding loss of community and family causes other social problems. We agree on much, question some, and depart being richer for momos and the conversation.
Heading down hwy 80 on way home from Tahoe. Glad to hear you are well and wish you the best of luck. Can’t wait to hear all about it when you return! Be safe and enjoy!
Oh, Uncle Robert! This sounds amazing. Nepal sounds beautiful and frightening and bizarre and alive. I just read all of your posts. Looks like you have already done a great job at finding some friends along the way. I am especially interested to hear more about your guide, Anjin. Just the fact that he knows those mountains leaves me in complete awe.
Sounds like the traffic over here is a bore compared to where you are! At least it seems that you have yummy food in Kathmandu. I loved your description of your first room. It sounds gritty! Hope all of your money problems from before weren’t, well, problems this time!
Now you must be trekking. My thoughts are with you. I can’t wait to hear about it! Thanks – by the way – for the Buddhist Teaching podcasts by that lady monk. I have been walking on the river and listening to them every night. She is fiery and I am really enjoying her explanations.
Glad that you haven’t been attacked by a monkey yet. Talk to you soon! 🙂
Sara, glad you are liking the Venerable Robina. I did not want to push her on you, but somehow thought that you may like her. Yes, she is a pistol. I sat on the floor with her for three days and she is well a NO BULLSHIT Monk.
Robert, you know I am like an old fashioned Jewish Mother…now I am going to worry! What are you thinking? Of course you need stinking maps! You who used maps to hike the PCT should know you ALWAYS have a map!
Take care my friend.
Yes, Brenda you were correct. I did have a small map in the guide book, but I sorely missed having a real map. For my next trek, I will have one.
Robert,
So glad my friend Shannon let me in on/to view your adventure from ..
well my couch at the moment.
Quiet desperation..in search of..
I believe you can create the energy, tap the energy,
but if I sit still with a future thought the desperation will come..
Quiet is peace, creating is exciting (as your trip)
and lost in an unknown future with out a peacfull heart
to me is desperation.
This blog has brought me much joy, and excitiment
and giggles to my day.
I will be wishing the best for your journey, your body and
your well being.
Namaste’
Suzi Gwen… from the old Singingwood in SAC
Suzi, Great to hear from you….it has been a very long time. “Idle hands are the work of the devil” as some say 🙂
Hey there,
i heard you are running around like crazy..
Let me know when you come up for a breath
i would like to meet for a spot of tea.
224-5389
Swenguzi