Robert Francisco

Destination: North Fork Feather River
Starting Location: Carter Meadow Trail Junction
Today’s Miles: 23.20
Trip Miles: 1345.90

Carter Meadow Trail (1321.6, 6600) to North Fork Feather River (1344.8, 5020) ascent (2976) descent (4511)

It took nearly 3 months but today I crossed the half-way point on my journey between Mexico and Canada. This is a milestone for me and provided a big mental boost. I asked myself today if I could do it again and while I qualified my answer by saying “yes, but it would be really hard” I felt confident that indeed I could keep going. A short day also helped today and Elevator joined us and added fresh ideas and perspectives to our conversations.
We have been seeing Mt. Lassen for about 5 days now and it really came into view today. We will reach this first volcano and start of the Cascade Range tomorrow. I am excited to be in a new mountain range. Think about it – we walked the length of the Sierra Nevada and now we begin our trek up the spine of the Cascades.
Camped high in the water shed of the Feather River and this river is tiny in comparison to the “creeks” we crossed in the Sierra. The water turned my ankles blue as I stooped knee deep while cleaning up. When I did the full submersion I thought my heart was going to stop. But it had to happen. This morning it rained just enough to get our skin moist and as we walked through the red dust of the Northern California forest our skin grew darker and darker. I actually started finger painting on my thigh during a not particularly scenic section. My art work was largely abstract or maybe aboriginal.
Walked through Collins Pine Timber Harvest today. What a contrast to the poor stewardship we saw near Jackson Meadow. Well constructed road designed to minimize erosion, selective cutting designed to promote sustainable forest, chipping operation cleaning up the marketable byproduct while reducing fuel load. First class operation.
I developed an odd series of micro blisters on my left forearm that covered an area the size of a 50 cent piece. When I touched the blisters the skin just whipped away leaving a very sore exposed flesh area. It is not poison oak and is a mystery. Between us we had some pretty serious medicines and over the last 24 hours we have treated it with all kinds of stuff. It looks stable at the moment and does not seem to be spreading. It looks like a severe reaction to something while having the characteristics of a very bad burn. Problem stabilized – we hope.
Saw some beautiful mixed forest today. Often in timber land the forest are a monoculture of rapidly growing (Douglas Fir) species. Today was different with multiple shades of green produced by fir, cedar, and pines. Beautiful.
Swiss Miss and I discussed choosing to be happy today. Now Swiss Miss is one of the most up beat persons I have ever had the good fortune to be around. It is contagious. She believes it is 100% a choice. She shared some history about a difficult home situation when she was young but she chooses to be positive and enjoy her life. At 33 she has traveled extensively and has wonderful stories about her adventures and misadventures. I like Swiss Miss a good deal. She is one of the truly great people I have ever met.

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Destination: Carter Meadow Trail Junction
Starting Location: Near William Cabin Flat
Today’s Miles: 26.60
Trip Miles: 1322.70
Near William Cabin Flat (1295, 3700) to Carter Meadow Trail Junction (1321.6, 6600) ascent (6017) descent (3110).

Mom started chemo today. Hard to believe that six weeks ago cancer was not a disease my family anticipated being in our immediate future. Butt here we are – chemo sucks but is the only option available. I am sure Mom is feeling pretty darn sick as the treatment works to stabilize and hopefully shrink the area affected.
Today was hard for me, I could not get moving well and so I kept telling myself all you have to do is keep walking. I reached the campsight at 7:45 and then walked another .5 miles to get the only available water in he area. I am beat and worried about Mom.

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Destination: Near William Cabin Flat
Starting Location: Clear Creek
Today’s Miles: 14.80
Trip Miles: 1296.10
Clear Creek (1280.2, 6190) to Near William Cabin Flat (1295., 3700) ascent (2293) descent (4711)

One guide book describes Belden as “creepy”. That was certainly not my experience. As we headed in I was a bit nervous about being able to re-supply. Most everyone had sent a box but I had planned on family and when that did not work out because of Mom’s treatment I did not have time to get a box sent. When we hit Belden Town I thought I was in a time warp. The resort was obviously once a grand destination around the North Fork of the Feather River and while its glory days were gone it was obvious that someone was trying to preserve the legacy. The restaurant was closed because of a well problem but the bar was open and cold sodas overlooking the river from within a beautiful old parlor was great. The bartender was really nice and we asked about the store. The lights were out and he told us that the inventory was light but get anything we wanted and he could ring it up. Now no vendors actually deliver to the store and I guess some might be upset about paying 300 percent for goods that were obviously bought at one of the super big box stores and then re-priced for resale. Didn’t bother me as I found almonds, chips, candy bars, and jelly. Now jelly is half of a PB&J so I was getting close and knew another similar existed in town. I placed a call to local trail angels Brenda and Lori and reached their wonderful daughter Rebecca who had us picked up before I put the receiver down. A ride to the post office to get Pang and Swiss Miss’ box and off to Little Haven. A separate apartment provided a perfect place to hang out and let the hot afternoon pass. A short walk down the road to the Caribou Café where a completely overwhelmed staff of two served up a good burger and chocolate shake while 12 hungry hikers kept ordering more food. I had a root beer float after the milk shake and the cook asked if “mixed” was ok as they were out of plain vanilla ice cream. I have never had a neapolitan root beer float before but I worked for me. In a very small corner of a very small café two shelves housed the store. Hamburger buns and peanut butter, my re-supply was no longer a problem. Some kids cereal, graham crackers, and another six candy bars will take me to the +85 miles to Old Station. As the temperature continued to soar the team conspired against me and held a secret meeting to discuss moving on tonight in the cool of the evening. While I in my not moving mode I readily agreed and we got a ride back to the bar and headed up a big climb in the still sweltering heat. We tried to buy a soda but the bar was closed but when Pang saw a nice looking fellow on his porch he asked in that perfect foreign accent if we could “buy soda”. With four sodas in hand we said thank you, took our signature – those who helped us photo and walked through Belden town toward the PCT. Belden was a great 8-hour stop.
Poison Oak is everywhere along the trail and I am highly allergic and pretty nervous about it. I opted for long pants this afternoon and scrubbed my legs raw after walking through miles of the Uri sol producing plant that can cause severe problems for some – me for example. I have my fingers crossed that I do not get it. If I do it means Prednisone and a further weakening of my immune system – not good.
I am glad I had heard this part of the trail can be hard mentally. This has helped me cope by knowing others have had a trying time here also. I need to get over the half way threshold as I believe that will help me. I also got a boost today when Liz said my friends, and huge PCT supporters, could host me for a night in Mt. Shasta and that Liz could also make it provided I could make it by the 29th. Some quick calculations and a commitment to push hard says I can do it. 10 days I see my friends and my wife –that is significant motivation to see me there.
When I spoke to Liz she game me a rundown of her upcoming week. Crazy busy and the contrast to my very simple world of finding food and hiking hiking hiking.

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Destination: Clear Creek
Starting Location: Feather Rier
Today’s Miles: 28.70
Trip Miles: 1281.30
Feather River (1251.5,3180) to Clear Creek (1280.2,6190) ascent (6102) descent (3028)

As I walked alone after lunch I heard a twig snap. I stopped, looked around but nothing. Again, another snap and another look. The third time I knew I was not crazy and then I saw her. A beautiful Doe deer tracking my progress on the slope above. It was obvious she wanted to e on the trail so I stopped and sure enough she came down right in front of me. She stayed about 30’ in front of me and we walked along together for a quarter mile or so. She stopped, looked at me, flapped her ears, and stepped off the trail as I passed.
6000’ of vertical climbing is a great calf workout and mine are certainly feeling it. In front I am feeling it all over. Vitamin I may be in order in the morning depending on my recovery rate. The human body’s ability to self repair is an amazing thing and to do it while we are still inflicting more damage is even more incredible.
I have been avoiding this subject for a while now and during a long hot climb this afternoon I decided it is something I need to speak to. I want to talk about the thieves we have on the trail this year. Let me be perfectly clear, some hikers have stolen from hiker friendly establishments. And while I have heard from others that it is not a big deal I see it very differently. In fact, if they were minorities and committed such a crime in a metropolitan area they would be arrested, tried, and convicted. But instead they are mostly white, mostly college educated, and mostly middle class. They will likely go on to run companies like Enron. Now I know something about stealing as I cheated an employer by false inflating hours on my time sheet. At the time I also said no big deal but I have come to understand very differently. Fortunately, like so many things in my life, I was able to rectify this mistake and my employer, unbelievably forgave me. That experience, while humiliating and humbling taught me that stealing and in particularly stealing from someone who trust you is a very serious matter and I will speak out against it. With regard to our 2006 thieves their actions were particularly disturbing as they represent past and more importantly future hikers. In the first known example, a stiffed Warner Springs resort by skipping out on his ill. Now Warner Springs is on a private resort and the members have voted to allow hikers to stay there and at an incredible discount. I wonder if they will be so generous next time. The second example involves VVR. Now VVR, as a courtesy, lets hikers run a tab. If you get a meal they give you a ticket and you are supposed to give it to the cashier when you leave. At the end of your stay they add up you tickets and you pay your balance. Well, some hikers decided not to turn in their tickets but rather tore them up. In both of these examples these hikers stole from people who were offering them a service and trusted them in the process. And to add insult, hikers receive a lot of free food and lodging from many generous sources and yet it is apparently not enough as they steal from others. I also find it disturbing how as a community we can all align and confront a mountain biker for inappropriately using the trail, but we sit by as our peers are stealing and in the process tarnishing the reputation of all other hikers. I have never seen or heard this topic ever mentioned in any of the long distance hiking forums. Are we afraid the enemy within? We had better get over it.
Camped with Two Shoes this evening. This guy has been lost so many times this summer it is hard to imagine he is still on the trail. He was relating a story about how he nearly ended up in Victorville after heading down Hwy 18. His comment was: “see all the fun you guys are missing by carrying maps and guide books”. It is rue, he is doing the trail, well some of it, without navigation resources. He said he was at least smart enough not to try the Sierras with such a strategy and so he hitch hiked around. Another great example of HYOH (hike your own hike).
Huge kudos to the fire fighters who worked on the Plumas National Forest fire near the Feather River. It was particularly obvious that this team of likely men and women fought a tough blaze on a very steep slope. And yet, they preserved the trail integrity and did a great job removing obstructions. Also on the Plumas National Forest, we have seen the most consistent use of PCT blazes on trees. These emblems are very helpful to navigation particularly when crossing roads or in burned areas where the trail may be lost. I am not a big fan of having the PCT blazed similarly to the Appalachian Trail, but some reasonable level of marking is an enhancement. And there is plenty of real estate for off trail travel if you are inclined.
Hot days and big mileage is taking some toll. I have a good case of diaper rash and Sugar Daddy and Swiss Miss are revisiting the fun of blisters. Pang is having some foot pain but the wasp that got him this afternoon hurt a lot worse.
This section of the trail is nice but the views are of similar with acres of forest. The surprising thing is the amount of climbing and descending we are doing.
My aqua mira bottle (water treatment chemicals) cracked and I lost most of the juice, so I have been using it sparingly while filling up at safe looking sources. At a spring today I held my bottle under a mosaic of ferns and thanked them for doing the filtering or me.

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Destination: Feather Rier
Starting Location: Below McRae RidgeToday’s Miles: 26.30
Trip Miles: 1252.60
Below McRae Ridge (225.2,5942) to Feather River (1251.5,3180) ascent (3005) descent (6138)

I soaked in the river for 30 minutes. The water was tolerable cold, the beach we are camped on lovely, and the friends great. Giddy-up, Elevator, Swiss Miss, Pang, Sugar Daddy, and a section hiker named Mr. Zip (he is a postal worker – I hope he is stable) are here. The setting is amazing but getting here was tough. This was our first hiking day completely off snow in a month and what a contrast. Between breakfast and lunch we had a blazing hot ridge walk complete with 2 inches of dust covering the entire trail. My face was dripping mud from the sweat/dust combination and I was really not enjoying myself. And as there is no water on the trail we had to make two off-trail trips to secure a resource that we had begun to take for granted again. No one wanted to get up after lunch and only group pressure got us moving. The afternoon was manageable and hiking with old friends made the day.
Not even half way. It is painful to think that I have to take more steps than I have already taken. Part of me cannot possibly believe that but the data book is pretty clear on the subject. I can’t say that I am real happy about that today. But experience has shown that this feeling will pass.
Mr. Zip was the hiking partner of a gentleman that died on the PCT early in the season as a result of a failing heart. To hear the story from his friend was emotional and obviously difficult to talk about.
After my late night rant last night, I better get some sleep

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Destination: Below McRae Ridge
Starting Location: Sierra City
Today’s Miles: 27.60
Trip Miles: 1226.30
Sierra City (1197.6, 4570) to Below McRae Ridge (1225.2, 5942) ascent (5384) descent (3980)

I was really hoping for an offer of hot coffee along with our ride to the trail but when I did not see any movement from the tent trailer at 6:20 a.m. I figured our ride, let alone the coffee, was in jeopardy. But true to his word Mark rolled out at 6:25 a.m. with blurry eyes and headed to the out-house. At 6:30 a.m., as promised, we loaded in his pick up and made it to the trail head at 6:45 a.m. Elevator (Jeff Singwald), Larry and Sandy were also getting dropped off. He took some photos of those who were helping us and we started up a 2700 foot ascent. What a way to start a big day.
Ridiculous sign out side the out-house this morning. By the outside water, immediately adjacent to the crapper was a sign that read “no fish cleaning and no use of soap”. The fish thing absolutely worked for me but if they think I am going to use a pubic out house and not use soap afterwards they are mistaken. Hell if I use soap after being near my own poop I am damn well going to use it when I am around others poop. So I did not follow the rules in our $18.00 out house, picnic table, trash, and do not use soap campground.
Elevator caught me easily on the climb and we had a nice chat climbing up the mountain dotted with abandoned mines. Heard our old friends Early Riser and Hard Tack had given up their hikes and that Two Shoes was getting off as well. As this group had completed an around the world one year bicycle tour I figured they would stick with it. However, one thing for certain, I cannot predict who will and will not continue. I have been continually surprised both directions.
At mid morning, well above Sierra City, and with great overlooks into the Gold Lakes Basin we met a family who was enjoying our public lands via a Jeep on an authorized off-road vehicle area. They were great and gave us each a 7-Up. The best magic is unexpected and on-trail! They were a big family – Mom, Dad, 4 boys, and 2 girls and they joked that they were not Mormon. I asked if they were Catholic. They said no, and then Swiss Miss said with a perfectly straight face and a great Swiss accent – “no TV” – That was funny!
27 miles to hike today, 27 miles to hike, you hike a mile take a drink, 26 miles to hike… That kept my mind occupied for a few hours. I was prepared for a long day mentally and thus it was relatively easy physically. Did I just say that? I remember years ago, I believe it was my sister Sheri, walked 20 miles for a charity. At the time that seemed like such a long ways…And it is. We do 27 again tomorrow.
After initiating yet another conversation with Sugar Daddy regarding God matters and talking for a while we had a dialog that went something like this: SD – do you believe it is possible, given you are seeking, that God brought us together so I could help you find God? GB – absolutely (and I do absolutely believe that it is possible). GB – so SD do you believe it is also possible that God brought us together so I could help you see how righteous and prideful you are with regard to having the answer about God? Long pause, SD – yes it is possible but not likely. GB – why not? SD – because I have the word of God as given to me in the Bible and you do not. Ok before I go any further I want to repeat something I have already stated. SD is a good friend, and I have immense respect for the man and his faith. But this type of logic is exactly why go Big is choosing to stay a heathen. For me being “right” is my biggest single character fault (I have many others as well) and religions, particularly Christianity, continually profess that they have the monopoly on the right answer while the rest of us are wrong. In my view this is incredibly arrogant and is wrong for me. For me, when I think “got it”, is about the exact moment that I “loose it”. And when I take such a “right” attitude I completely close myself off to other possibilities. And there are certainly many worth exploring. But by definitions my Christian friends seem to believe theirs is the only way. Earlier in the hike SD and I were discussing this and we came upon another Christian, who shall remain nameless, who made the bold statement that sometimes you just “know”. I asked him to name one, he looked East, pointed to the sun, and said definitely “I know the sun rose in the East”. I smiled while ironically SD pointed out that actually the earth rotated around the sun. That conversation ended quickly as I pointed out that just maybe their monopoly approach to God might be off as well and that if my history was correct religious organizations actually executed the best minds of their times who did figured out the rotation question. I think this person was actually a bit pissed at me…Imagine that. And with that, from what I know I generally subscribe to the “truths” of the Bible. But these truths seem to be universal and nearly all cultures and their religions have very similar ideas about right and wrong, morality, good and evil. Yet each of them claim their map is the right map even though they have not even looked at the other map. Now that is a good way to get lost on the PCT. So this is how it works – person chooses their map (Bible, Koran, Bag a Vicita, Phone Book) then they say their map is right because the map says so. Then when I say yeah but you choose the map in the first place and maybe you chose wrong, they say something like no because my map was inspired by God and I know it was because my map says it was. Ok, but the other map makes the same claim. So what, they were wrong and I can prove it because my map says so… and on, and on, and on. Best circular arguments I have ever heard and if you choose this path you can always be right. I kind of like not having the answer but rather walking the trail while keeping my eyes wide open for new maps.
Oh boy. What am I doing ranting about my views after 10:00 p. m. I will pay for this tomorrow. Do you think this is punishment for my views? I am so looking forward to meeting God if She exists. We are going to have a very long debriefing. Now is that Swiss Miss or Pang snoring?

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Destination: Sierra City
Starting Location: Bridge over Milton Creek
Today’s Miles: 4.20
Trip Miles: 1198.70
Milton Creek (1193.4,4990) to Sierra City (1197.6,4570) ascent (433) descent (1086)

Another great family visit with lots of good food and hospitality for everyone. My nephew Chris and his wife Korbi provided shuttle service to and from town for Post Office and store visits. While hiking I think a lot about family and even though it is difficult to express in person simply seeing each of them means a great deal to me. So Mom, Dad, Sheri, Chris, Korbi, and Ryan thank you very much for making the trip. Having your support is huge – it is not what you do but that you support me in what I am trying to do. I hope I can return this enormous gift. Oh yeah – the food iss nice also and kudos to Chris for the awesome BBQ job.
I tried to secure a room and shower but no way on a Saturday night so we are in the campground. $18.00 a night for a pit toilet, water faucet, and table. Seems crazy as we are accustomed to free wilderness but these services do cost money and Pang “Yogied”(asked/gave someone an opportunity to hep us after some – well begging) us a ride to the trail head for 6:30 a.m. tomorrow.
Our 25 mile a day, 6 days a week strategy, on our first leg starting tomorrow does not work. We need to reach Belden Post Office on Wednesday and they are only open until 1:00 p.m. So we must do 3 27 mile days and then 11 miles on Wednesday morning. 27’s hurt.
Yesterday Swiss Miss stopped abruptly and pointed to an M&M on the trail. We studied it for a moment, speculated that it was likely dropped by Rita (M&M) and then I figured that the 3 hour rule (like the 3 second rule at home) applied, reached down, picked it up, and ate it. Tasted good and was good for a laugh!
We have a new trail song that I can whistle pretty well but I am having a tough time getting the Swiss words. Pang wrote it out for me and that made it worse because the letters have different sounds in Swiss vs. English. The song is about a beautiful place in Overland Switzerland and it has a contagious melody. We sing it a lot and as it could raise the dead spirits it is always good for a smile even if I am hurting.
Stupid. I forgot to put my crocks (camp shoes that weigh 11 oz.) back into my bounce box my Dad has. Now I must carry these blasted things until Old Station – 9 days ahead. They are very comfortable but not worth the weight. I did swap out my 15 degree bag for a lighter 30 degree bag. That mitigates the shoes but I wanted less no the same.
4400 feet, oak trees, and water warm enough to swim in. We have not been in such a low elevation for 26 weeks and the contrast is dramatic. We now travel in this zone (4000-7000 feet) for a few hundred miles. While the elevation is lower we are seeing species of plants that only occur at higher elevations farther south. This latitudinal shift in vegetation will continue or our entire journey and farther north we will be in thick coniferous forest at this same elevation.
Sugar and I are taking a gamble on our resupply strategy going forward. We have greatly varied reports regarding if we can resupply in Belden or not. We hope we can as we are only taking enough food to get there. I we are wrong – we will go to plan B which has not been formulated yet. Others sent food to Belden via the Post Office, but we had an alternate plan involving Lucky Liz that fell apart because we got behind our schedule – no worries.

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Destination: Bridge over Milton Creek
Starting Location: Knoll
Today’s Miles: 25.20
Trip Miles: 1194.50
Knoll above White Rush Creek (1168.2, 8120) to Bridge over Milton Creek (1193.4, 4990) ascent (2910) descent (5719)

After eating a whole wheat bagel with peanut butter, honey & jelly I figured I was about 900 calories short for the afternoon. But I needed to ration so I took a 10 minute nap. When I woke up I found a king size payday candy bar & a package of fig newtons on my pack. Sugar Daddy knew I was getting low, saw me eat a small lunch on a 25 mile day & hooked me up. This evening Pang & Swiss Miss quietly fixed the lunch they will not need tomorrow & I enjoyed a dinner of couscous & polenta with tomato sauce. Without the help I would have made it on my ration program but I would have lost at least 1 pound. So how could I run low? It is odd but my metabolism is fluctuating dramatically & my eating is very inconsistent. On the last leg I came in with 2 full bags of food left. I cut back my portions by one day and now I find myself a day short. I have read in other journals that people do not share food quickly on the trail. My experience is just the opposite. In fact, the group I am hiking with would give you their raincoat if you needed it more than them. Must have more to do with the people involved. Our team rocks!
With more than half of the trail remaining, our focus is quickly shifting to beating the winter weather in the North Cascades. We knew the Sierra would take what they would take regarding time and now we have to kick up the pace. The idea of pushing harder is painful to think about but the math says if we do 25 miles per day 6 days per week, we will reach Manning Park BC on September 20th. That also builds in a cushion for weather as we could be on the trail until the end of September. Beyond that is a weather gamble and everyday that goes by our odds decrease. So let’s go.
I was having trouble mentally every time I thought about doing another 1500+ miles so I have tried to stay focused on daily goals. Beginning yesterday I tried a new strategy. When I start being overwhelmed with the journey ahead I visualize myself at the northern terminus. Each time I bring forth an image it is always the same – walking strong and crying tears of happiness because I made it. The current fears diminish & I keep heading north.
Camped with giddy-up this evening. I doubt he will have any trouble with the miles as he is routinely doing 30+ days. A guide in Alaska he understands what it takes and I have enjoyed talking with him.
Been thinking more about choices today and it seems to me that despite the bumper stickers life does not simply happen. Rather it is driven by the choices we make. Unfortunately we often do not recognize this and they fail to realize life is of our own making. Sure we were all dealt some lousy cards in the process but we choose how we play those also. So when someone tells me they can’t do something I typically think and sometimes say what they really mean is they choose not to. Because we do not like the consequences we tell ourselves we can’t. Jobs are the classic example: I can’t quit my job. Well actually we choose not to probably because you do not like the potential consequences. News flash – change the potential consequences and the can’t may turn into a choice.
It seems obvious to me but maybe I should mention that nothing I write is intended for anyone but me. These are my truths & many if not most are still being worked out for me. So if I sound preachy – I am – but I am my own audience.
The sign read “practice leave no trace camping” as we walked north from Jackson Meadow Reservoir. Both Pang & Swiss Miss ask for a translation and Sugar Daddy & I did a credible job providing one. And then we walked into one of the worst examples of modern day logging I have seen. Massive soil disturbance accompanied by significant erosion, poor road construction, huge slash piles left in place, and so much debris left as to make new tree germination impossible. Just a bit of a “trace” here. To be clear I support timber harvesting. In fact I believe that because of needed fire suppression for life & property, active timber management is the only viable & biologically sound alternative. So let’s do it right. I am pretty certain that this property is private (so thank you for the right of passage easement) and is part of the western landscape ownership checker board that was established during the railroad era. I am also pretty certain that short term profits were the driving force behind this timber operation. That is unfortunate as this land could produce a viable renewable resource for each generation into the future but it has to be managed to do so. Oh yea – for the anti timber crowds; fire suppression will continue & without that natural process our forest will die. The biology is absolutely clear on this and opposing logging is therefore opposing forest viability. No reason to ever cut old growth however. The areas are unfortunately so small that they can be managed with other methods. Some companies are doing a great job at this and their business plans recognize that reasonable rates of return pay more over time than one time high rates. The market could care less however.
Speaking of resources. Did you know that the Natural Resources Committee in the United States Congress was renamed the Resource Committee? Subtle but important. Natural Resources suggest some stewardship while Resources alone suggests a commodity to be used and likely used up. I have voted republican my entire life. That changed this last go round. The current administration is bad for conservation – period. And when did the democrats start being the party of fiscal conservatism? Crazy time. Weed told me I was a libertarian now. I will have to look into that when I get home.
Sugar Daddy pointed out that last night was the first time in weeks we were not camped next to running water. It is good to be close again as I missed the cascade of clean water.

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Destination: Knoll
Starting Location: Painted Rock Trail
Today’s Miles: 22.20
Trip Miles: 1169.30
Painted Rock Trail (1146.0, 7550) to Knoll (1168.2, 8120) ascent (4318) descent (3914)

Reached Donner Pass on Highway 80. From here I could go 80 miles & be home in 80 minutes. I thought about it but did not call for a ride.
Talked to my mom as she was returning from her chemotherapy orientation class. Sounds like the class was good & informative. She told me she was going to drive up to Sierra City with the family & was making deviled eggs. Now I love deviled eggs & my mom who is about to start a pretty awful medical treatment is making them & delivering them in person. As many hikers have commented what a great family I have. Sounds like my nephew Chris & his new beautiful bride Korbi are also coming. I am very excited and am looking forward to congratulating them in person – I am gong to be a great uncle. Is a backpack or fly rod an appropriate gift for a baby shower?
Now rumor has it my buddy Joe Sobinovsky is on record as saying my hike is looking a bit soft & sounding a lot like a “Hilton” hike. He is not talking about Paris or her sister but rather about mutual friends who thru-hiked in high style with a support vehicle following them. Like me they hiked the miles which maybe more than we can say about Joe. Seems like I heard something about him mounting a 4 legged creature for a, albeit very small, portion of the trail. Of course I would never repeat that as it is only a rumor.
Camped on a lovely knoll looking west. We stayed up higher tonight in an attempt to thwart the blood suckers. The strategy worked. Water does not typically occur on knolls but we found a patch of melting snow & were able to use Pang’s filter to get water. I have been treating my water for a few days now as we are in the realm of indiscriminate poopers as Rolling Thunder would say. Turns out that Agua Mira does have a taste. It seemed tasteless before but I realized that was because I am used to drinking municipal water which is often treated with chlorine dioxide in the gaseous form. Agua Mira is liquid. High Sierra spring water does not have a taste & yet it tasted wonderful.
Saw some major trail damage in the Granite Chief Wilderness from motorcycles. After looking at the map I am certain that they came into the Wilderness from the western boundary. Don’t get me wrong this hike has demonstrated the wonderful good in people but as a trend I still think we are in trouble. Our society has an insatiable appetite for more, we have come to expect it, & we are never satisfied. It is pervasive in corporate governance, and in our private lives. And while we often hear we have a supply side problem (oil for example) we actually have a demand side problem. This demand calls for more of everything and promotes a culture that makes it okay to take whatever we want regardless of the consequences. We deserve it don’t you know, and we will ride our motorcycles any damn place we please.
Smog creates nice sunsets & as I look west the influence of the San Francisco Bay area & Sacramento is evident. We are all taking many less photos now because the sky is hazy. The mountains are still beautiful but they seem shrouded by evidence of our excesses.
Not my idea but I have been thinking about the idea of no-fly zones over Wilderness & National Park areas. It first seemed a bit extreme but now I am a supporter. Okay high military or commercial traffic is fine but F16 horsing around or helicopter tours over parks & wilderness – no.
Gogo, 3 Bar & Sean passed us just out of Echo & seemed to be really moving out. We understand our buddy Cadence who was forced off the trail in Tehachapi with a stress fracture is now back on & is a few days north after starting again from Sonora. Hope to catch her. We know Rolling Thunder, Tadpole, & Sunny were at Pooh Corner & we think we are a few hours ahead. If so they will catch us in the a.m. Rita is missing and is ahead or behind but we can not agree on the most likely option. 3 Gallon is probably behind unless he passed us at lunch. Iniki is probably a full day behind. Hoping the stinking doze get back together at Sierra City. Jorgey from Canada also passed us.
I started across a steep & very frozen snow field this morning & turned around. After not finding an alternate route I went across but a little shy after my slip last week. Rolling Thunder calls that once bit, twice shy. It did not help that I took off my snow baskets at Echo Lake. The baskets suck when off the snow but make an indescribable difference on the snow. With forward momentum & poles going into deep I often walk right out of the poles. It is pretty funny actually – you are walking along and your poles get pulled out of your hands. Often someone behind me pulls them out while laughing hysterically.
Heard Judith had signed my guest book. Very cool. How many times has JC had you rearrange his travel plans, at the last minute, this month? I miss you and all the laughs we had as we like most if not all corporate employees lived out Dilbert.
Met a group of senior hostel folks out for a hike south of Highway 40. They were great with the elder stateswoman likely pushing 85. They all cheered and clapped for us but it was they who deserved the applause.
Many people, most weekend or day hikers, have said something like they would love to hike the trail but they could not get off work, or how could you get off work? It is interesting how work is such a dominant driver in people’s lives. I loved my job but in general work is often over rated & certainly over emphasized as being all important. So who does the trail? In our group: a court reporter, a landscaper, a truck driver/forest worker, an anesthesiologist, a cell phone computer code writer, a missionary, an electrical engineer & 2 outdoor educators for troubled youth. Economics – basically broke to financially secure. The point is, it is about choices and often excused are simply another way to demonstrate choices we are embarrassed or not honest enough to admit. Something about “lives of quiet desperation”.

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Destination: Painted Rock Trail
Starting Location: Miller Creek
Today’s Miles: 23.70
Trip Miles: 1147.10
Miller Creek (1122.3, 7126) to Painted Rock Trail (1146.0, 7550) ascent (4800) descent (4331)

Some days are just easy. This was one of them. The extra hour of sleep last night was great & the walking was pleasant. As the sun sets it is hitting the back of my tent, providing bright light & great warmth. The sound of the adjacent stream is pleasantly loud, my stomach is full & I am perfectly content.
While others use alarms to awaken I am fortunate in that the early morning bird calls are enough to wake me. The timing is perfect as the birds begin singing & just before sunrise it gets quite loud at 5:15 a.m. I can use the woods & be ready to hike by 6:00 a.m. A candy bar typically holds me over until we stop for breakfast at 7:30 or so. If I was hiking alone I would do things differently but this schedule works for me & when I suggested that I wanted to stop walking by 6:30 p.m. everyone consented to the request. Teamwork & compromise; powerful ways to build respect.
I have seen and partaken in some strange food combinations on the trail but a couple of real winners include mac & cheese mixed with mashed potatoes, & peanut butter on anything you can think of. By far, the winner is however, making tea of hot chocolate from the starch water that is left after cooking your noodles. Those who drink it swear the extra starch is good and the taste is “not bad”.
Dropped my snow baskets a few days early and crossing the remaining fields are more difficult without them as I can not push off while climbing and more than once the poles have been walked out of on the down hills.
While skiing down a nice piece of snow I made the mistake of looking at the only tree (about 8’) on the entire slope. When I got stopped the tree was bent about 45 degrees between my legs with the crown touching my nose. Pang, Swiss Miss & Sugar Daddy were laughing so hard they were nearly crying. The phenomenon is called object fixation and literally means if you focus on something while moving toward it, you will hit it. I know & understand this phenomenon, I have practiced ensuring it does not happen (very dangerous on a motorcycle) & yet there I was straddling this poor pine tree.
The inside of my tent looks like the killing fields as I have put my thumb to good use each night killing mosquitoes. It is amazing how much blood one of these evil beasts can hold & what a mess they make after hundreds are smashed above & beside your head.
The sun is really setting now & everything outside is turning golden yellow while casting long shadows. This is a magical time in the mountains. I now also smell the wild onion growing at the creek side. It seems to be getting stronger with the rapid temperature drop & potential rise in humidity. It is too glorious to write – I must take this in.

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