Robert Francisco

Destination: Miller Creek
Starting Location: Aloha Lake Today’s Miles: 21.30
Trip Miles: 1123.40
Aloha Lake (1101.0, 8133) to Miller Creek (1122.3, 7126) ascent (3317) descent (4341)

Some days are just tough. This was one of them. Physically everything is fine but at lunch I fell asleep while leaning on a log. I am simply tired.
My hard boiled eggs (one of my favorite thru-hiker foods) apparently did not like being hard boiled & would have preferred to be scrambled or fried. They were nearly impossible to peel & after one I was really frustrated so in order to practice patience I peeled the other 4 & tried to answer the question as to why some eggs do not like to be hard boiled. I ate them as I slowly peeled them & my frustration was offset by how good they tasted. Now that I ate them all in one sitting I do not have to worry about this frustration for now. Regarding the answer: it has something to do with the eggs.

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Destination: Aloha Lake
Starting Location: Steve & Peggy’s cabin
Today’s Miles: 8.00
Trip Miles: 1102.10

Highway 50 (1093, 7220) to Aloha Lake (1101.0, 8133) ascent (1627) descent (771) NERO
Food comatose is the word to describe our situation. After nearly 48 hours of eating we had great difficulty leaving the cabin. We consumed between 25,000 to 35,000 calories (that is not a typo) in those hours and as we laid around the thought of hiking was not an attractive activity.
The vortex that can suck hikers in was stronger at Steve & Peggy’s than any other I have felt. This is not a bad thing but was the result of the warmest hospitality I have ever experienced. 10 stinking hikers moved in for 48 hours and Steve & Peggy created an atmosphere that can only be achieved in one’s own home. And it was hard to leave because it was like home & I miss that.
I thought the Forest Service could not top the absurdity of the snowmobile issue near Sonora but we saw evidence that they are trying. Two examples of incredibly poor land management decisions: first, two separate mountain bike trails that terminate at the PCT. The trails terminate about 1 mile apart & if you connect them via the PCT you can create a loop ride. Guess what? There is a lot of bicycle use on the PCT between these two points. Second, while walking or riding a horse on the PCT near Highway 50 you come to the beginning or end of a trail labeled the Pony Express Trail. This trail is clearly marked that it is multiple use and mountain bikes are allowed. However to get to it or to finish a ride there requires carrying your bike down the PCT to the parking area or to the start of the trail. Guess what again – a lot of bikes seem to be using the PCT to access this trail or the parking lot. I would really like to talk to the planner who came up with these strategies that make it nearly impossible to comply with the National Trails System Act requirements for the PCT. The Forest Service is the federal agency that the U.S. Congress designated as the lead land management agency for the Trail. They can do a better job in this area.
I am realizing that I am always a bit depressed or even melancholy after a zero day. I do not exactly know why but it has to do with missing my other life & the difficulties of hiking every day. Seeing Liz was wonderful & made leaving more difficult. Fortunately she headed home first. Liz & I had not seen each other for about 5 weeks and that is long enough to make the heart grow fonder while also creating some unfamiliarity. While hiking up the trail I longed to be home. But I know that is not what I really desire. I am supposed to finish this thing and I plan to.
Our stinky group is dispersing & tonight we are only 6 (Sugar Daddy, Pang, Swiss Miss, Tadpole & Sunny). Everyone has different plans & schedules & we will not capture these great group dynamics ever again. But there will be new groups & new experiences as the trail keeps me focused not on the past or future but on the now.
Liz liked my Swiss friends and that made me very happy. I overheard Swiss Miss & Lucky Liz discussing a potential trip to the Alps. I heard they yodel there & I like that.

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Destination: Steve & Peggy’s cabin
Starting Location: Highway 50
Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 1094.10

Echo Lake / Steve & Peggy’s
Zero
When Peggy arrived I had to laugh as she unloaded an amount of food equal to or greater than what Liz brought. They had apparently compared notes before hand and then they independently added some. Egg & cheese soufflé, tater tots & smoked sausages was a distance hiker’s dream breakfast.
Reached the former girlfriend and after some interesting but unimportant talk we asked ourselves why we were having this conversation. Because we never had a chance to say goodbye. It is unusual to be able to reconcile a situation as complicated and emotional as a relationship and I am grateful for the chance to do so. After nearly two decades I would have thought that there would be no emotion attached to such things. But when things are left unsaid or I have remorse over things said or done, that little burden is always there regardless if I am conscious about it or not. I was a fortunate man to have an opportunity to love such a wonderful person and have that reciprocated. We did not know what a precious thing we had nor did we know how to nourish it. And thus it failed. But we learned, we moved on, and we got it right with our current marriages. I feel good about this situation and feel a bit freer as a result.
go-BIG

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Destination: Highway 50
Starting Location: Headwaters of Truckee River
Today’s Miles: 13.00
Trip Miles: 1094.10
Headwaters of Truckee River (1080, 8560) to Highway 50 (1093, 7220) ascent (1407) descent (2474) 13 miles NERO

Had a casual hike to the highway & there was Lucky Liz – wonderful to see her. Helped the team with logistics & headed up to Steve & Peggy’s summer cabin that overlooks Tahoe. The hospitality here is incredible with 9 hikers getting hot showers & a real bed. After cleaning up you know where we had to go – the all you can eat buffet at Harrah’s at Tahoe. They lost money on our group as we ate for 2 hours.

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Destination: Headwaters of Truckee River
Starting Location: Pennsylvania Creek
Today’s Miles: 23.10
Trip Miles: 1081.10
Pennsylvania Creek (1056.9, 8140) to Headwaters of Truckee River (1080, 8560) ascent (4754) descent (4321)

Two big days in a row. But well worth it as tomorrow we NERO. Today was likely the last day on snow that poses any real risk for this section or the hike. So naturally I almost ate it crossing a 30’ shoot. Just 10 simple steps. The run-out (where you go if you fall) was very steep & nasty & at the bottom (300 vertical feet & 1000 feet total) rocks. We were early & the snow was ice hard. Pang & Swiss Miss crossed by using mountaineering boots while kicking very narrow perches. I knew I could not kick any steps with trail running shoes but I figured they made just enough edge for me to perch on each step by turning my angle. Halfway across – step 5 – the perch for my right foot broke off. I jammed my left pole into the snow basket, dropped my right pole, and grabbed the next perch with my right hand. I know have my face on the snow, left foot on a perch, left arm up high holding a pole, right leg dangling, and right hand holding a perch. When I caught my breath & got my heart out of my throat I heard Swiss Miss say “oh no”. I was in a fix. By pulling on my left pole I was able to stand up, but that meant letting my right hand go. Now I am standing on a perch with one leg, left arm still attached to pole, right hand free, & right leg hanging with no where to put it. I was really focused. Pang dropped his pack and kicked hard enough to break his foot until he got to me. He then kicked a huge platform for my right foot. I took 5 more steps. I said thank you Pang, & he gave that wry Swiss smile & said you’re welcome go-BIG.
After pushing very hard over Elephant Back Ridge (I wanted to call Liz & heard the kiosk at Carson Pass had a phone) I met Joel (class of 2004) who was up for a weekend hike carrying a bunch of fresh fruit for any thru-hikers he met. “You must be a thru-hiker, would you like some fruit”? Best banana I ever had. Connected with Lucky Liz & set up a rendezvous for tomorrow – yippee. People from the parking lot brought over more fruit. Headed up trail & go-Daddy (bob) had left a note with soda & apples. People are so nice. The trail shows you that & I love losing some of my cynicism regarding the human race.

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Destination: Pennsylvania Creek
Starting Location: Boulder Creek
Today’s Miles: 24.60
Trip Miles: 1058.00
Boulder Creek (1032, 8600) to Pennsylvania Creek (1056.9, 8140) ascent (4419) descent (5098)

With rumors of potential trail magic at Ebbetts Pass I joined a break away group that left the peleton (cycling term for main body of cyclists in a race). We had heard lunch time was a possibility and thus we did 17 miles by 1 pm. Ouch! As we neared the pass we began to see day hikers & we inquired if they had seen anyone who was looking to bring food joy into our lives. The answer repeatedly was no. When we reached the parking lot we met some nice folks who were interested in our hike. We were talking nicely & while disappointed we were glad for the break. We were about to eat our hiker food when the women in the group said “oh you must be the hikers the people on the road are looking for. They have a whole table of food & a cooler with beer & soda.” It was so embarrassing. Rolling Thunder nearly plowed over a 12 year old, Sunny & Tadpole cut the trail as a short cut & I was running behind yelling to the nice people that it was nice to meet them but we “had” to go.
Sure enough Dick & his wife had heard Thunder was coming (he had stayed with their daughter & husband who are hiking next year) & fresh fruit, raspberry bars, soda, beer, brownies, were abundant. What luxury.
The rest of the group should have rolled in at about 3 and when they did not show we got concerned. Finally Sugar Daddy made it in and after eating was able to let us know that Pang was sick but was still walking. We waited another hour & Sunny headed back up the trail. Shortly they came in with Sunny carrying Pang’s pack. I knew that was not a good sign. I have been hiking with Pang for weeks & I have never heard a single complaint about his well being. We got Pang a soda & some fruit & he said he was feeling better. Better enough to go 7 more miles? We completely emptied his pack and distributed everything to those with capacity & ability to carry more. Sunny took most of it, & the rest of us picked up a few pounds. When Pang got into camp he went to every person and said the same thing: go-BIG thank you, Rolling Thunder thank you, Three Gallon thank you, Sugar Daddy thank you. You are welcome Pang.
We are now eight as M&M & INIKI did not want to push this hard & they are not trying to reach Tahoe by Saturday afternoon. We are having so much fun & laughing so hard that the trick is to not wet yourself. The scenery is breathtaking with huge volcanic pinnacles & open landscapes.
Three Gallon, who got his name by carrying 3 gallons of water in the Sierra, is becoming a verb. For example if you have a truly magnificent fall in the snow, mud, or a river crossing you can be credited with a great 3 gallon. This is because Three Gallon is famous for spectacular crashes. And he keeps having them because he is living at the edge and he keeps challenging his abilities. At one really steep snow slope he was skiing (on hiking shoes) with a high probability for a crash. I told Three Gallon “this is beyond our ability” & he said “yep, let’s go anyway. We both stayed up on that one but we tumbled a lot keeping pace with the birthday (24) boy Sunny.

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Destination: Boulder Creek
Starting Location: Sonora PassToday’s Miles: 14.00
Trip Miles: 1033.40
Sonora Pass (1018.3, 9620) to Boulder Creek (10323, 8600) ascent (2697) descent (3619)

My parents are the best. We (the stinky 10 now) realized we could not make it to Tahoe on our desired schedule unless we got an earlier resupply at Sonora. So I sent a message down the hill with the dinner hitch hikers to call my dad & see if they could come early. I knew that would mean an early morning for them but I did not anticipate that they would have birthday guests until 11:00 pm and their alarm would go off at 3:00 a.m. to meet our request. Because of their support we got a needed 14 miles in. We are now set up for a Saturday arrival in Tahoe. Thank you.
Mom’s diagnosis is bad. She likely has a rare form (less than 1% of the cases) of breast cancer. Treatment will entail a minimum of 6 months of chemotherapy before surgery, then a mastectomy and then more chemo. It is going to be a difficult year. I want to thank my friend who took time out of her busy oncology schedule to see my mom & provide an independent assessment. Fortunately but frustrating I know mom will get better treatment now that her primary doctor knows she has access to good information.
“You are full of blood, but now you are dead. Was it worth it?” – Sunny talking to a mosquito he had just killed while we waited for the team.
I enjoyed learning about dynamic (rope) & static (webbing) systems of mountain climbing today along with fall factor calculations as we traveled a valley lined with vertical granite walls. Sunny is a climber and a very humble & thoughtful guy. So when he casually said he was a good climber I knew immediately that he was really good. Tadpole, Sunny’s girlfriend, later confirmed that he is really, really good. Thus the great balance. He practices stringing a static line between two trees in the off season & walks across it – backwards/forward/sideways.
Saw some impressive navigation skills today from Rolling Thunder. A mountaineer from the south island of New Zealand, he looks at the map, finds the location based on the topography & only then looks at the trail. The lesson is to not “make” the topo fit the trail but let the trail fit the topo. I follow the trail on the map & note we crossed this creek or that ridge so we must be here. Thunder looks around then looks at the map & says we are “here”. And he does it in seconds. It is so neat to witness skill at that level as you recognize where you are at on the curve ^ you see the potential.
Back in Tuolumne mom pointed out that the skin over my Achilles did not look so good. I had not really noticed, but on inspection I realized that the snow had nearly completely abraded the skin. Signs of an infection were evident and I could not believe I had not noticed. It demonstrates how the mind can just turn some things (like pain or discomfort (off when it wants to. Bag balm to the rescue. A treatment every night since & the potential for infection is gone, scars have formed, & healing is taking place.
No more 13 or 12, or 11, or even 10,000 ft mountains to climb as we head north. The tall stuff is now behind us & it is all down hill towards Canada with a few ups & downs along the way.
Back at VVR I found a tube of seam seal in the hiker box. A hiker box is a box or crate or barrel located at long distance hiker hangouts that contain other hiker’s discarded items. Sometimes it is junk but often times it holds treasurers. Like seam seal. I had kicked a hole in the toe of my Montrail Hardrock shoes. Days of the snow, kicking steps to create a perch to stand on, had wore a hole completely through the toe. No complaints, these are awesome shoes & they held up well to the abuse they were not designed for. I repeatedly filled the hole, let dry & filled it again. Kicked about another 50 miles of snow steps since then & they are going strong & will get me through the end of it. Good product Montrail.
I got a bit frustrated today when I found out that no pictures were being posted to my journal. I have taken hundreds. Then I realized my gratitude needed an adjustment. While I am hiking the PCT, Lucky Liz, is managing our home, running the PCTA, transcribing my journal, downloading my photos to our home computer, ordering me gear. . . and to download photos to Trail Journals is a slow process & she has not had time. We are going to figure out a solution in Tahoe and I hope to get some photos up. Sugar Daddy showed one to my dad today of me trying to cross Mono Creek. I think the quote was something like “he really is crazy”. Anyway, people have asked to see the photos & we will figure out a way. What I would like to do is have one photo per journal entry that hopefully captures the mood or major events of the day. Stand by.
I am feeling good. Spirits are up & the body is doing well. Eating mom’s pumpkin bread with dinner tonight made me appreciate what I have. I have a lot. I do not seem to get bored hiking 12 hours a day, but I am glad when the day is over. I actually do not like breaks very much because they simply prolong the day. I dread some mornings when I wake up & realize I have only a few short minutes to lay on the hard ground but I am pretty content once moving.

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Destination: Sonora Pass
Starting Location: Cascade Creek
Today’s Miles: 18.20
Trip Miles: 1019.40
Cascade Creek (999.9, 8975) to Sonora Pass (1018.3, 9620) ascent (3930) descent (3196)

Happy Birthday America – and if you do not believe time flies & life is short consider that our bicentennial was 30 years ago. More importantly Happy Birthday Mom. You have been in my thoughts every day & every day has been full of smiles.
The dirty dozen dispersed as quickly as it formed. Mike & Herman headed to Bridgeport while Sunny, Tadpole, Sugar Daddy, Pang, Swiss Miss, 3 Gallon & Rolling Thunder hitched to Kennedy Meadows North for a shot at dinner. Iniki, M&M & I stayed here at Sonora. I know this road well as I have ridden my motorcycle over it many times, and one thing is for sure – getting a ride back up after dark could be tough. Given that it is now 8:00 & not one car has gone by for over an hour could mean those who planned to come back tonight will not make it. I really enjoyed my evening visiting with Iniki & M&M. In the larger group it was difficult to have a conversation & when the language barrier is factored in it was quite difficult. Tonight with just 3 of us we were able to have a conversation about living simply and the value of friendships. We spoke in English & with German & Spanish accents it takes concentration and effort to have a conversation. And this is a good thing as it forces me to listen. Often it is so easy to hear the words but not really hear anything. This conversation was not like that.
Today I completed a life long dream’ to hike across the entire Sierra Nevada mountain range. What an opportunity and what an experience. The transition between the glaciated granitic valleys to the volcanic soils was immediate and dramatic. And the ridge walk into Sonora Pass was incredible with 360 degrees panoramic views and an impression of being on top of the world.
Just before Sonora Pass the guide book describes “lethal” snow. It was a bit too steep to walk across safely so we dropped to our bums & slid out of harms way.
The guide book is an excellent book that describes the route but the author took way too much liberty by adding all kinds of subjective opinions & observations that distract from you having your own experience. It is a big joke among hikers – oh what peril awaits us today per the guide book. Quotes like mosquito haunted, seemingly endless switchbacks, child’s play compared to previous sections are some of our recent favorites. You know nearly anything can be lethal but I doubt very seriously if anyone has actually died on that section of the PCT – so please just describe the route.
Near Sonora Pass we began to see bamboo stakes near the trail & realized these were snowmobile boundary signs. Now this is one of the dumbest things I have seen the USFA Forest Service do. First they open up a proposed Wilderness area to snowmobiles & then when they realize the area contains the PCT and it is restricted to hiking & equestrians they decide to make the PCT the boundary for the use area. So you are riding your snowmobile in a proposed Wilderness are & when you come to the PCT you are supposed to turn around. Oh yea the trail is under snow. So they put up a few of these poles (only one was still standing) to demark the area. Everyone loses with ridiculous compromises such as this one. I support snowmobile use on public lands, but in proposed Wilderness atop a National Scenic Trail – it’s ridiculous. And by the way, how about cleaning up the garbage your signage attempt produced.
Sugar Daddy, Pang & I have taken to removing as many down trees from the trail as possible. I am not sure who started it but at first we would simply flick a branch off the trail with our hiking pole. Now we are moving some pretty big trees and if you are in front you are supposed to hurry & clear the trail so everyone else does not have to go around or go over, or go through. If they are really big we team up. 3 guys can move a pretty big tree. The other hikers look at us like we are nuts but we have the time, it is fun & we are helping a bit. Wonder if I can claim a charitable deduction?
Bridges are a wonderful thing and anticipating them relieves all kinds of anxiety. Each time we knew we had a bridge coming up I would joke that we were swimming because the bridge was out. So I started cracking up when Rolling Thunder & Sunny were heading south on the PCT and told me the bridge was out. Naturally I did not believe them & kept walking only to find the foot bridge over Cascade Creek washed down river. After the very wet crossing late in the day I was told no more jokes that come true.

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Destination: Cascade Creek
Starting Location: Lower Kerrick Canyon Bear Valley Trail Junction
Today’s Miles: 19.70
Trip Miles: 1001.20
Lower Kerrick Canyon (980.2, 7960) to Cascade Creek (999.9, 8975) ascent (3835) descent (2835)

When Pang & Sunny help the last person off the log at Kerrick Canyon the dirty (stinky) dozen broke into a huge applause & I am pretty sure I was not the only one with wet eyes. The applause was partially for Sunny & Pang and they certainly deserved it as they demonstrated acrobatic balance skill as they helped people across. But the real applause was for each other & specifically for one in our group who has a physical condition that impacts their balance. When that person departed that log they were beaming & we were beaming with them.
I thought about that crossing all night & listened for any indication that the water was dropping. In the morning the condensation inside my tent was nearly dripping as the pint of water I respired during the night clung to the ceiling & sides. If you touch anything you get wet. After walking up the hill for morning chores * went to the river edge & noticed that indeed the water had dropped by a vertical foot. Sunny, Rolling Thunder & I consulted and were confident that we could get everyone across safely but wet. We then decided to do some more scouting and that’s when we found the log. Getting onto it was tricky & crossing it was scary but the practice paid off and when I needed to stay on the log most I did. So did everyone else & the feared crossing was over at 7:40 a.m.
The next crossing provided Rolling Thunder (yes he did get his name because he has a lot of gas) an opportunity to show us a New Zealand technique for multiple people to cross together. This technique is excellent on heavy current even bottom rivers and takes advantage of stronger members while breaking the flow for others.
Bear #2 was getting a drink when we startled her & she took off. We watched her run a long ways until she reached a wooded area. Again cinnamon in color but much smaller maybe weighing approximately 250 lbs.
First thing in the morning we will cross the 1000 mile mark. So today I have been singing: I will walk 500 miles & I will walk 500 more just to be the man who walked a thousand miles to knock on Lucky Liz’s door. Several of us have our own versions & I am likely the worst singer of the group but I still belt it out anyway. A thousand miles is a long ways to hike until you think that you have to do 1650 more. Thinking that way is overwhelming to me & the day at a time approach is much more manageable.

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Destination: Lower Kerrick Canyon Bear Valley Trail Junction
Starting Location: Matterhorn Canyon Trail
Today’s Miles: 17.70
Trip Miles: 981.50
Matterhorn Canyon Trail (962.5, 8510) to Lower Kerrick Canyon Bear Valley Trail Junction (980.2, 7960) ascent (4216) descent (4764) 17.7 miles

And now we wait. Our goal today was to reach the Kerrick Canyon crossing, assess the situation & cross or wait. As I walked down the river 3.5 miles towards the crossing I knew the answer. I am sure I could get across but to try this evening was certainly going to require swimming in some heavy water. Based on what we have seen, the creek should drop substantially overnight. And that is what we need. We have 12 of us here & I am glad for the large group. Everyone is making light of the situation, yet it is clear I am not the only one who is apprehensive. We have 6 good waders, 3 average & 3 who have varying degrees of difficulty. It is the last 3 I worry the most about and yet my respect for them grows exponentially with every crossing they make. They are admittedly scared, know they do not possess strong technical abilities, and yet they do anyway. It is going to be a long night listening to the roaring water. I am not certain but I doubt strongly that any one in this group will turn back. Between us we have enough rope to rig a safety line and maybe a pack retrieval line. We will see in the morning.
Today was one of the most spectacular of the trip. The weather was glorious with deep blue sky. And the granite with water pouring off as the snow melts was like magic. Taking photographs was futile as the scenes were too large to capture. Every time I looked at the LCD screen & compared to what my eyes were seeing I would shut off the camera due to inadequacy.
Heard today that “good judgment comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgment”. So you have to survive a bunch of stupid stuff before you learn anything. I tried that today. At what ultimately turned out to be a simple crossing at Piute Creek started out with a bit of experience gathering. I started in at an area that I knew was going to be chest deep but it was moving slow, or so I thought. Knowing my hip belt pockets would be submerged I took out my camera & said this is so easy I will just carry it. At about 4’ deep with my hip belt attached (oops) I floated right off the bottom into 6’ of water that was holding some really big trout for this country. Note to self: fish Piute Creek in the future. No big deal I thought as I floated (dry bags in the pack really add a lot of floatation) like a red & white fishing bobber. And then I saw the danger; a log perfectly submerged 2’ under the surface. If your legs go under that with a pack on you are going to be in trouble go-BIG as the current is going to pull you under with a good potential to get hung up. Or you may very well get pinned against the log where freeing yourself will be very tough.
I quickly pulled my legs up to my chest, while holding the camera in one hand & my hiking poles in the other, and just as I was clearing the log I sprang with all my ability towards more shallow water. The log was an aspen and it depressed a long way but when it rebounded it literally catapulted me to where I wanted to go – back where I started. Rolling Thunder got a great photo and said it was an amazing recovery. I was muttering something about stupid, stupid, stupid. Heard from my buddy Mike that he did the same thing with a much wetter & scarier outcome. He first got hung up in the log & when he got freed he was swept down river & given a good dunking before being spit out down stream. I guess I should mention that I was a water safety instructor in the Marine Corps and a Red Cross lifeguard. Obviously, brains were not required for either.
Well we just decided to sleep in until 6 tomorrow as we want the sun on the water for the crossing attempt. This will help prevent hypothermia but more importantly it will let me get a good look at the bottom & help with judging depth. Both of which will help with safety. I like sleeping in and am very excited.
The trail made what appeared to be a crazy ¾ circle today. We followed the trail route which was mostly snow covered. A few others took the shortest distance between two points, straight line approach and they arrived about an hour late for lunch after the cliff sent them back to follow our tracks. “It did not look that steep on the topo map” was the response. We kidded them for a bit & then took mercy & related my Donahue Pass screw up.
I am craving Thai food and Mexican food from a taqueria where the menu on the board is all in Spanish, the orange soda is Fanta and the Coke is always in a glass bottle.

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