Robert Francisco

Destination: Sisters, OR
Starting Location: Sisters, OR Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 1913.30
Sisters, Oregon – Zero

Thunder is taking a few days off to see an old friend, I am resting per Tim’s direction & Sunny & Tadpole the Hippo are heading out. We drove them to Olallie Lake around the enforced fire closures. It is a 90 mile drive one way and may prove to be a tough hitchhike for other stranded hikers as it requires 5 road changes. The log book at Olallie shows Pang, Swiss Miss & Sugar got here as well and continue to head north. I am sad I did not see them as I wanted to tell them personally that I loved hiking with each of them but I would not likely catch them even if I am able to continue.
Coincidentally Liz’s long time friend Kathy from high school arrived in Sisters today with her husband Danny. After 25 years in Atlanta, Georgia retirement brought them west. We went to see their beautiful piece of property overlooking the famed Deschutes River. The property, like ours in Mt Shasta, will make incredible home sites. And yet I am conflicted – two people occupying several acres of land? Danny explained the odd lot configuration and I quickly realized that someone, not unlike my previous professional land use consultant self, had figured out a way to comply with agriculture zoning while allowing for large single family homes on multi acre lots. I offer no solution.
Dinner again at Jen’s Garden with equally spectacular results. Kathy & Danny insisted on hosting as “after all we live here now”. I was a bit distant all evening as I have been for several days. I am worried about my leg. I felt bad because Liz came all this way & I am focused almost exclusively on me.
Called my sister Sheri & she reported that she heard I would likely be home on Friday. I told her that like Samuel Clemens the reports of my death are highly exaggerated. Talked to my dad & he tried to convince me that finishing was not a big deal & that I could finish next year. I know he was trying to cheer me up but he & I both know that finishing is a big deal. Everyone is genuinely concerned about me going forward on this leg but I have to try. Not trying is the real failure. I keep thinking about the documentary film Touching the Void. My injury is a joke compared to the film’s climber who crawled for 5 days before reaching base camp after a nearly fatal fall and being left for dead. Nevertheless, if I can walk, even barely, I will also continue.

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Destination: Sisters, OR
Starting Location: Sisters, OR
Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 1913.30
Sisters, Oregon – Zero

Thanks to Gottago & her contacts in Bend, Oregon I got a referral to an Orthopedic Surgeon. The Center for Orthopedic & Neurological Care & Research in Bend is impressive. Liz suggested that I have my brain checked while there but I stayed focused on my trashed shin. Got a same day appointment for 3 pm. Checked in at 2:50, called into appointment at 3:01, had x-ray at 3:10, consulted with the doctor at 3:15, walked outside by 3:25.
Dr. Tim Bollom was great. A sports medicine specialist and serious athlete he did not even blink when I told him I had walked 1900 miles had 750 to go and needed to get it done in around 40 days before the snow flew in the North Cascades. Prognosis: maybe. Without an MRI it is impossible to rule out a stress fracture but Tim was reasonably certain that the leg was not broken. More probable was that I have a severe soft tissue injury. Basically something got torn up internally – muscle, tendon, connecting tissue, nerves, blood vessels… But can I walk? “Maybe, I am going to give you a very strong anti-inflammatory that your stomach may or may not be able to handle. Rest a few more days, cross your fingers, & go really slow… especially on the down hills”. A maybe is good enough – I am thrilled.

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Destination: Sisters, OR
Starting Location: Trapper Creek Campground Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 1913.30
Sisters, Oregon – Zero

Karen gave me the ¼ mile ride from Trapper Creek Campground to Shelter Cove last night. Just as we pulled in Lucky Liz arrived an hour ahead of schedule. After introductions and thank yous, we decided to head up to Sisters. We checked into the Sister’s Motor Lodge based on a recommendation from Melouise & Laraine. What a great place – each room individually decorated, hammocks under a couple of enormous shade trees, and an owner (Mary) who clearly loves her establishment & her clients.
I am pretty bummed but Liz is remarkably supportive & keeps reminding me what I have accomplished versus what I have not finished. And with that theme we went to celebrate with a nice dinner out. I have had the good fortune to eat at some really terrific restaurants over the years including some of San Francisco’s, Salt Lake City’s, San Diego’s, and Washington DC’s…best. And Jen’s Garden in Sisters, Oregon is on par or better than all of them. Ala carte or a fixed menu, the selection was unique, diverse & incredible. I had the fixed 5 course meal and was happy to pay the $45. Over dinner my mood improved & Liz & I caught our lives up. Mine was pretty simple; been hiking, got hurt – bad. Hers was more complicated with news about the PCTA, family & friends.
Went to a log home company model house to check out ideas. We loved what we saw. This firm specializes in old style craftsmanship with fully scribed or chinked log homes. If we can afford it our home will be constructed in this manner & will be standing 100 years from now. That seems right to me – if you are going to use resources use them well and build to last. Forget short term cost benefits of our disposable society; over time the costs are going to far exceed the sustainable approach.
Drove up to McKenzie Pass to pick up Thunder, Sunny, and the Hippo and potentially hook up with Swiss Miss, Pang & Sugar Daddy. I tried walking down the trail a bit but gave up after 100 meters or so. We found Tracker who was waiting for his mom. Unfortunately the trail parking situation is confusing & his mom was also waiting but in a different spot. We got them in the same spot & witnessed a nice reunion. Picked up the gang and took them to Sisters where we all went to a really good dinner at The Gallery Restaurant.
What to do about the fires? No good reroute option, the trail is absolutely closed and, in fact, the trail is burning in the Puzzle Fire

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Destination: Creek below Suiattle Pass
Starting Location: Fire Crrrk
Today’s Miles: 26.20
Trip Miles: 2492.60
Fire Creek (2529.1, 5370) to Creek below Suiattle Pass (2555.3, 5730) ascent (8248) descent (7667)

We are 100.1 miles from Canada – holy crap batman we are getting close.
The only way to make today colder than yesterday was to add some wind – so that is what happened. My sleeping bag was dryer when I woke up than when I went to bed so my plan worked out well. And it is still raining steady tonight. I have my tent pitched so tight that the drops are bouncing and falling again. It is so wet.
This wilderness is one of the best however and actually it is how I pictured it; big mountains, green from moisture, and glacier fed rivers. We made it across the real PCT route. The flood damage is remarkable and if you ever think humans can control nature, walk this route. We had to cross a lot of downed trees & scramble down some steep slopes while using branches for support. The trail has fallen off the mountains in many spots & we had to navigate around. The infamous Suiattle River was running thigh deep & there was a log for crossing. I chose to wade & the boys walked down stream to the log. The wading was straight forward except the Suiattle is milky due to glacial till and thus you can not see into the water. Given my feet are growing webbing anyway I figured why use the log.
Raining good now.
I love my wife more as a result of this trip. Not because “absence makes the heart grow fonder” but because I appreciate her so much more. I am very fortunate to have such a woman as my life partner.
I sure would like to be at the beach right now with my feet in the warm sand . . . I am starting to shiver again.
It is probably because we are getting close, but I am getting tired. Physically I am beyond my hiking peak which happened around Mt Shasta. At that point I was totally fit & going strong. Now I am doing great but my legs are losing muscle now and the endurance is off a bit as well. Then again 8,000+ feet of climbing in these conditions might make anyone tired.
Hands are shaking too much to write anymore, going deep into bag yet again

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Destination: Trapper Creek Campground
Starting Location: Trapper Creek Campground
Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 1913.30
Trapper Creek Campground – Zero

Linda & Ron, my campground neighbors, invited me over for coffee & fresh huckleberry pie for breakfast. Amazing is the only way to describe that pie. I also secured a family bread recipe that was hand written in the early part of the last century by Josephine Castellanos. Here it is:
1 cake compressed yeast (about 1.25 packets in today’s terms)
½ cup sugar
1 tsp salt
2 cups lukewarm water
1 egg
7 cups flour
3 T. shortening.
Crumble yeast into large mixing bowl. Add sugar, salt, and water. Add well beaten egg. Sift flour once before measuring. Add half flour & beat well. Add melted shortening and mix in remainder of flour. Let rise to double its bulk. Punch down. Cover tightly & place in Frigidaire. About 1 hour before baking, remove desired amount of dough. Shape into rolls & place on greased pan. Use gem pans for clover leaf rolls. Let rise slowly to double their bulk, then bake in hot oven (425) for 20 – 25 minutes. This dough can be kept in Frigidaire and used from as desired. Shapes may be prepared in the morning and placed back in Frigidaire to be ready for quick baking. Allow just enough time for the dough to rise & the rolls to bake so that they will come from the oven piping hot.

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Destination: Trapper Creek Campground
Starting Location: Shelter Cove
Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 1913.30
Trapper Creek Campground – Zero

I got up early with the hikers who were heading to Canada. My leg is absolutely trashed and I hobbled to the outhouse. Not wanting to be there when they walked off, I said quick goodbyes & wished my friends luck on their journey. The scene was awkward until Thunder over dramatized the situation and we all laughed. I slowly walked over to the resort, ordered a latte, and called Lucky Liz. I thought I was okay but when I explained the situation I began to cry. I have worked so hard to get here. She was great as always and agreed to come pick me up, and take me to Sisters, Oregon in hopes I can walk again after 5 days rest. Called mom & dad as well and they were quick to point out that “we” will finish next year if need be. Mom had been real sick again due to dehydration after chemo but she is fighting hard & staying positive.
Bill and Karen, the Trapper Creek camp hosts, helped me move to a smaller spot, brought me a chair so I could elevate my leg, and told me to hobble over at 5 pm for a BBQ steak dinner.
Before dinner, Bill said grace and asked God for some help with healing my leg so I could continue my journey. I quietly said amen and did not feel awkward at all. I figured any potential help was certainly welcome.
New York steak, fried potatoes, corn on the cob, & salad were served to perfection & we enjoyed a nice evening. Karen commented that she knew I had to be totally bummed as my friends hiked on and she was glad they were able to fill in a small part of the void I must be feeling. Great people – thank you.
As I write this I reach over from the picnic table and pick perfectly ripe huckleberries by the handful. They are delicious and remind me that everything is exactly as it is supposed to be.
My hike had turned into a journey where as my life would start over after Manning Park. It was as if I was on an ocean and if I did not get there (to shore) I would most certainly perish at sea. At some point today I realized I was still on land. Yes, I am bummed beyond compare. However sometimes in life it is how you deal with disappointment that really develops you as a person. My hike may be over for 2006 but I am not done with any aspect of my life, so I will move on. A friend used to tell me that “out of seemingly bad, always comes good – always”. This setback will be no different.
I know for sure that even if I get back on the trail this year I will not be able to keep pace with my friends. So I will not try because they would slow down and potentially jeopardize their hikes. And I would have to skip ahead to do so. I plan to go to McKenzie Pass with Liz, pick up the gang & go to Sisters. Then I will rest another day & evaluate. From Shelter Cove, Elk Lake Resort is 44 miles and I may try to do that section in say 3 days as a test to my legs ability to carry me & my ability to endure a bit of discomfort.
Bill is learning to play the fiddle and practices each evening. He is pretty rough but he plays away & watching his efforts reminds me that it is the trying that is important. At this point I have given it my best shot and I will continue to do so. I could sure use some good luck about now as well.

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Destination: Shelter Cove
Starting Location: Shelter Cove Resort
Today’s Miles: 0.00
Trip Miles: 1913.30
Shelter Cove – Zero

Sunny, Tadpole the hippo, & Rolling Thunder opted to take a day off as well in hopes my leg would miraculously heal. We stayed at the Trapper Creek federal campground adjacent to Shelter Cove Resort. Everyone slept a lot, organized gear, and called friends & loved ones. I was down most of the day as I came to realize I would not be able to push on tomorrow. I can barely walk without a pack and the pain is excruciating. The bruise option looks nearly impossible at this point.
Chris & Gina, section hikers from Australia who we have met several times before, joined us in the afternoon. Tracker also showed up after spending a few slower days hiking with his father. Gina described a remarkably similar injury she suffered last year after hiking all of California. Her diagnosis was unfortunately a stress fracture and the consensus is growing that my injury is likely as serious.
The people in the campground are wonderful & we easily secured a ride to Willamette Pass to pick up take out pizza. We had a bit of a party but it felt more like a wake to me.

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Destination: Shelter Cove Resort
Starting Location: Summit Lake
Today’s Miles: 18.20
Trip Miles: 1913.30
Summit Lake (1894, 5510) to Shelter Cove Resort (1912.2, 5003) ascent (1998) descent (2762)

Toughest miles of the entire trip with 12 miles of down hill. My stubbornness was either an asset or a liability today. Yes I made it in – good. Yes I am now totally broken physically – I can not walk. My doctor who I talked with on the telephone has two possible diagnoses. One – a bruised shin resulting in a subsurface hematoma that is irritated by walking – painful, but not a huge deal. Two – stress fracture to the tibia or fibia that is causing a hematoma because of bleeding around the break. Big damn problem & potential deal breaker. Tomorrow I rest and maybe even pray a bit. Double damn.
Oh yea, the scenery was nice when I looked up.

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Destination: Summit Lake
Starting Location: Before Howlock Trail Today’s Miles: 30.50
Trip Miles: 1895.10
Howlock Trail (1863.5, 7057) to Summit Lake (1894.0, 5510) ascent (1859) descent (3110)

With my teeth clenched and breathing through my nose I limped the last eight miles into camp. Somehow a simple day went very bad. Coming down a hill around mile 20 I felt a slight pain in my right shin. It felt like a shin splint and I slowed down a bit. Two miles later I was limping and in a lot of pain. 800 mg of vitamin I took the sharpest edge off, but it hurt really bad and I winced on each step of the down hills. Have no idea what the problem is but it is not going away quickly, of that I am sure. Damn.

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Destination: Before Howlock Trail
Starting Location: Past Rim Drive Today’s Miles: 21.50
Trip Miles: 1864.60
Past Rim Drive (1842, 7057) to Before Howlock Trail (1863.5, 7306) ascent (4173) descent (3970)

Truthfully, my balls were in my throat as I pulled myself up the last 80 feet of Mt Thielsen Pinnacle Summit. Sunny, an accomplished climber, had advised us to not go up anything without looking to ensure we could get ourselves down, and Rolling Thunder gave me a 10 second lesson on 3 points of contact at all times. I would have never tried this alone but my friends helped me summit a route that is reported to be the toughest scramble in Oregon. Both Sunny & Thunder were surprised the route was advertised as not needing ropes and commented that it was as difficult as you would want to without rope safety. And it was awesome! I was so excited as I summated first while Thunder coached me on the route from below. Then came Thunder & Tadpole who was being coached by Sunny. The 4 of us on top of an amazing pinnacle of rock. I will never forget this experience and those who helped me achieve something I did not think I could do.
The quote of the day: Tadpole – “what if farting was considered attractive?” Sunny – “Then you would be a super model”.
New Balance shoes are not making the grade on this hike. In the desert they were okay but were shot at 400 miles. In the rough volcanic rocks of Oregon my current pair is trashed after 200 miles. The Montrail Hardrocks, that Thunder is wearing, in contrast are wearing great I will switch to Hardrocks in Sisters and anticipate 1 pair will take me across all of Washington.
We talked a lot today about where we each draw our ethical lines & how the decisions are made. I decided not to camp on the rim of Crater Lake as it is against park rules. In contrast I crossed a fire closure area & I camped at Deep Creek (also prohibited). Each one of these decisions was completely conscious. I do not feel good about being selective regarding which rules I follow yet I will continue to do so. I think being mindful is the key while evaluating my own ethics in each situation that comes up. Once again a continuum of options is available & we each choose our own spot on the continuum which we are comfortable with.

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