Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Archive for August, 2006

Prudhoe Bay

Destination: Past Rim Drive
Starting Location: Crater Lake Trailhead Today’s Miles: 11.60
Trip Miles: 1843.10
Mazama (1830.4, 6108) to Past Rim Drive (1842.0, 7057) ascent (2690) descent (1660)

The Rim Trail around Crater Lake was a highlight of this trip & the PCT. What a beautiful lake – the blue is so blue it is hard to describe & Wizard Island, the volcano inside the caldera, is simply cool.
Met a motorcyclist on the rim who had come from Prudhoe Bay Alaska on his way home to Argentina. We said he was crazy and he returned the compliment.
I learned about a Bassoon from the Hippo who plays one. How cool is that. It has two reeds, is a woodwind, and is difficult to play. It also closely matches the range of the human voice.
We stopped at the Rim Lodge in our formal hiker wear. We ordered salads with candied walnuts & crumbled cheese along with seafood chowder. We ate on the deck and smiled broadly at everyone wearing expensive polo shirts who looked at us with distaste. It is our National Park also – maybe even more so.
go-BIG

Read Full Post »

Destination: Crater Lake Trailhead
Starting Location: Water before Honeymoon
Today’s Miles: 22.40
Trip Miles: 1831.50
Water before Honeymoon Creek (1808, 6650) to Crater Lake Trailhead (1830.4, 6108) ascent (2425) descent (2838)

Wow. Barney & Sandy built up an incredible amount of good trail karma for their 2007 attempt. They thought of everything (extra clothes for while we showered, laundry soap, shampoo…) & then they treated us to a wonderful buffet dinner at the Mazama Restaurant. The food was excellent, the generosity incredible & the formation of new friendships was wonderful.
Lucked out & reached Liz who was supposed to be at the Outdoor Retailer show but cancelled as air travel was apparently a complete nightmare. As our feel good security confiscated water bottles. We had a lovely chat. I told her about our house plans and she was excited to see the drawings. She told me about taking some friends hiking along with their 7 & 10 year old daughters. Sounds like they had a magical trip & the 7 year old said that she loved the wilderness. The 10 year old said she wanted to spend the night next time. All right – let’s get the next generation out here; it is good for the people & the land and likely our only hope for a sustainable future.
Nice hiking today with Sandy & Barney who thought we waked a wee bit fast. They are both very interesting people who you just want to spend more time with. Barney is very active in scouting and I was so encouraged to hear how his local program does not promote discrimination as articulated by the national leadership. Hearing first hand accounts of Muslims & Jews participating in scouting together warmed my heart & I am grateful to men like Barney who are giving their time to promote such tolerance while drawing an appropriate boundary. Sandy is a high school biology teacher and I could not help but think “where was that passion & dedication at my high school?” Maybe it was there & I was blind. Regardless teachers like Sandy rock!
I am really enjoying hiking with Sunny, Tadpole the hippo & Thunder. We all get along swell & the decision making is super collaborative & flexible. I miss Pang, Swiss Miss & Sugar Daddy & should see them tomorrow.

Read Full Post »

Destination: Water before Honeymoon
Starting Location: Highway 140
Today’s Miles: 27.40
Trip Miles: 1809.10
Highway 140 (1780.6, 498.4) to Water before Honeymoon (180.8, 6650) ascent (3927) descent (2247)

Being self conscious about my half burned off beard I walked through the forest thinking of solutions. And the forest provided the answer – lichen. I took a big bunch and worked it into my beard – kind of like adding synthetic hair to corn rows. It must have been a huge success based on the number of photos taken once I rejoined the group. On the trail you must be able to improvise. I removed my beard piece and put it in a safe place so I can readily apply in Crater Lake in order to blend in with the summer vacation crowd.
I have been hearing about Bonnie & Sandy for nearly six weeks from Thunder. They hosted him in San Diego, and Sandy’s parents Dick & Irene provided us magic way back at Ebbets Pass. Given we are supposed to meet them today I sought to verify that Bonnie is the woman & Sandy is the guy right? Who is Bonnie, his name is Bonnie Thunder replied and his wife’s name is Sandy. Okay a guy named Bonnie? Finally Sunny helped out and reminded me that our friend from the south island of New Zealand does not pronunciate “R’. And thus I was prepared to meet out trail angels Barney & Sandy.
Not knowing what trail they might hike in on, Thunder took the Sky Lakes Trail & Sunny, Tadpole & I stayed on the PCT. We got it right and thus got the homemade chocolate cookies before Thunder arrived. We are all camped together & will hike into Crater Lake where Barney & Sandy will help us tremendously with our resupply needs.
The trail broke out of the trees today and we had a beautiful ridge walk where we could still view out old friend Mt Shasta. We have been seeing that volcano for nearly 3 weeks now & today should have been our last view. I am going to miss her but falling from view signals northern progress.
Met my first government official on the trail today. It took 1805 miles. Super nice guy monitoring the trail conditions & ensuring forest rule compliance. He commented that they see very few problems with PCT hikers & that made me happy. Didn’t even ask for our permits & sent us on our way with warm wishes for a successful journey.
Met some long distance section hikers today and noted a phenomenon we have seen before. The woman was really beat up with bad blisters and we easily recognized the painful walk. When we asked how far they were going they commented that they “had” to make it to Cascade Locks. We suggested they consider slowing down in order to let her feet heal and they repeated that they had to make ti to Cascade Locks because that was the plan and they needed to hike 21 miles per day to do it. Now we are all obviously goal driven as we head to Canada but these aggressive section hikers seem even more so. Go to Sisters or Timberline Lodge – do 15 miles & enjoy yourselves more. Our group does not have to be to Canada on any particular day & I am really glad about that as we are driven but more flexible. We came to a nice spot and someone suggested we stop. Everyone thought that was a swell idea. About 15 minutes later the injured hiker walked by with 3 more miles to go that she “had” to do.
Foot seemed better today even if only slightly – good sign. I have slowed my pace & am soaking my foot when possible.
Shooter wanted to interview us and so we waited after two hours of hiking. Unfortunately we forget how fast we hike and after waiting 40 minutes we moved on. Rainskirt later told us Shooter turned back after about 5 miles. We had gone nearly 7 miles in two hours before our first break. Hiking machines. We entered Oregon Tuesday (4 days ago with a half day off in Ashland) and we have walked 20% of the state.

?

?

Read Full Post »

Destination: Highway 140
Starting Location: Hyatt Lake Today’s
Miles: 30.40
Trip Miles: 1781.70
Hyatt Lake (1750.2, 5090) to Highway 140 (1780.6, 4984) ascent (3835) descent (3901)

I used to have a , albeit pathetic, hiker beard. Then Sunny asked me to blow out Tadpole the hippo’s alcohol stove. Now I have some sort of reverse goatee.
The guide book suggests that no one would choose to hike section B of Oregon because it is uninteresting. Bull. What a great trail through a second growth forest and across jumbled lava fields. The walking was easy & the miles pass easily.
Shooter, who is filming a documentary, was at highway 140 when we arrived. He was looking for Rainskirt (Inaki) who was with us. He is going to follow us in the morning and film our friend from Spain. He joined us in camp but not before running Thunder to the country store for soda, beer & chips. Surprise soda tastes so good on the trail.
Lucky Liz & I own a beautiful piece of property in Mt Shasta City. I have been indecisive regarding building a home there because I was nervous about the crazy land appreciation and how much equity we would tie up. Lucky, like always, has been steady in her resolve that we should build our home on this piece of property. This trip has convinced me of the same thing and now that the fear is gone I am wildly excited. So for about a week I have been designing a home in my head. Then I got smart and got the team working on it. Four heads are better than one, and Sunny in particular has a lot of experience. We have been working on this project for two straight days. Hours of brainstorming & even more hours putting the good ideas together into a comprehensive home. We hope to be able to afford a log house and that is what we are designing but it could be modified to accommodate conventional stick framing if needed. Our criteria has included everything from energy efficiency to snow loading requirements, and our design is totally cool & extremely simple. I can see this home & hope we live in it one day soon.
More bee stings today but fortunately I was spared. My sting from yesterday itches like crazy & Sunny has the same thing going on. My foot is about the same but a cocktail of vitamin I and Aleeve kept me walking 12 hours & 30 miles. Same plan for tomorrow.

?

Read Full Post »

Destination: Hyatt Lake
Starting Location: Ashland Today’s Miles: 23.60
Trip Miles: 1751.30
Ashland (1726.6, 4240) to Hyatt Lake (1750.2, 5070) ascent (1800) descent (600)

After 1700 miles and many attempts at polite conversations with mountain bikers Rolling Thunder took an abbreviated dialog approach.
Rolling Thunder: Do you know this is the PCT and mountain bikes are not allowed? Mountain Biker: Yes.
Rolling Thunder: Then why are you here?
Mountain Biker: I did not expect to see any hikers & if cows are allowed in this area I should be as well.
Rolling Thunder: So basically you are a selfish prick.
At that point the biker turned around and rode off. Tadpole the hippo, Sunny & I were a bit surprised by Thunder’s harsh words but he explained that it had been taking 15 minutes to come to this conclusion during previous encounters &, well, he simply did not want to waste time & thus went directly to the obvious conclusion. For additional impact and intimidation I took out my camera & snapped a photo as the biker rode off talking under his breath.
Foot is pretty sore & I am walking with my shoes completely loosened to take pressure off the instep. I am unsure if this is an injury or a new shoes pressure point issue. Walking slower does help & I will continue that tactic. Vitamin I does nothing for the pain so it is not an inflammation issue. I am going to try Aleeve tomorrow to see if that helps. These types of issues are troublesome & make me nervous as you never know how minor or serious they are & thus I worry a lot.
Today we talked about how nonprofits are governed, what is staff’s role, etc relative to the board’s roles. How do organizations like the Nature Conservancy get so far over an ethical & potentially legal line as they executed questionable conservation easements that provided huge tax advantages while providing no public benefit. Our conclusion, like nearly all subjects that are fully explored, suggested that while there may be black & there may be white most things fall along a grey gradient. We saw a for sale sign during this conversation & I asked the group if it would be appropriate for a nonprofit to help secure an easement or own the property fee title as a way to protect the trail. Everyone agreed this was appropriate & very white. Okay then, how about we buy the property, secure a great trail route through it, and then sell the remainder for a profit & use the proceeds to purchase another parcel that would benefit the trail. Now we are getting a bit grey and the process begins.
Three bee stings today. Sunny got 2 & I got one. Benadryl is my friend and as the histamines began to fire, the antihistamine drug began to buck the production. I got a bit light headed but recovered pretty quickly. Sunny’s hurt like mad, he actually cursed, but he had no reaction.

?

Read Full Post »

PCTA in Ashland

Destination: Ashland
Starting Location: Grouse Gap
Today’s Miles: 10.70
Trip Miles: 1727.70
Grouse Gap Shelter (1715.9, 6630) to Ashland (1726.6, 4240) ascent (482) descent (3022)

Ian, the Northern California / Southern Oregon PCTA Regional Representative took a half day off work and really helped us out. Thai Food take out while we did laundry & showered, followed by chauffeur service to an outdoor store for shoes, and an early ride back to the trail in the morning. Thank you Ian.
Turns out David who we met last evening works at Dagoba Chocolate. This morning he told us to call him & he would hook us up with some chocolate. I had no idea. Dagoba is a fantastic (rated as some of the best in the world) organic chocolate and we had an impromptu sampling at their Ashland headquarters & David sent us on our way with some trail chocolate that should more appropriately be eaten after a fine meal. I take that back – the trail is the absolutely perfect place for exquisite chocolate.
Had to do a lot of planning, shopping & shipping here as Oregon is more difficult to resupply than California. Before we got everything done the UPS store & the post office had closed. Once again Ian came through & agreed to mail our stuff in the morning after he drops us off.
Have a new pain in my left foot. Odd pain on top of the foot. The pain does not respond to vitamin I & I am a bit worried. I think my miles are okay but the pace may be a bit fast for me. I plan to slow down & hopefully get some relief. It hurts like hell which in itself is okay. The problem is it could be a serious & worsening injury. Hope not.

Read Full Post »

Destination: Grouse Gap
Starting Location: Lowden’s Cabin Site Today’s Miles: 33.40
Trip Miles: 1717.00
Lowden’s Cabin Site (1682.5, 600) to Grouse Gap (1715.9, 6630) ascent (5663) descent (5095)

Today I entered the Oregon Territories. And while my journey is insignificant compared to those who came before me 150 years ago I have touched their world. I have experienced hardship and joy while developing relationships with kindred spirits. As I crossed the Oregon / California border I was surprised to be overcome with emotion. I just hiked 1700 miles encompassing the entire length of California and this milestone was a powerful reminder of the trail and all it entails.
To set up for Ashland we continued on and arrived at the Grouse ridge hut to find it occupied by 4 locals who came up for the evening to enjoy the full moon in the company of friends. The fire pit was going, food was shared and we all enjoyed a wonderful evening. I headed for my tent at 10:30 but I think the party may go late into the evening. We have several invitations for Ashland thanks to our new friends. The trail breaks down all typical barriers.

Read Full Post »

Destination: Lowden’s Cabin Site
Starting Location: Seiad Valley
Today’s Miles: 20.40
Trip Miles: 1683.60
Seiad Valley (1662.1, 1371) to Lowdens Cabin Site (1682.5, 6007) ascent (6821) descent (2349)

Dad asked when we needed to leave & I casually said “if we leave by noon we can easily make our 20 miles”. We are hiking machines & to think about that first difficult 20 into Lake Morena is a distant memory.
Had a scare as we realized my maps & personal items had been left in a box labeled “hiker box”. I am really particular about my stuff & being organized on the trail. Not having my maps concerned me greatly & I worried about it during the night. Dad worried more however and at 5:30 a.m. he said “let’s go find your stuff”. Fortunately, the box had not been put into view and we retrieved everything before the hiker trash woke up. My folks were sure no one would take my stuff, but unfortunately I have seen some behavior that convinced me otherwise”. The good news was my friends were there and they recognized the stuff as mine & kept it aside. I felt bad for dad because he felt really bad about putting the stuff in the wrong box. After it was retrieved however, we were able to enjoy a cup of coffee & talk about motorcycles. Mom had fallen back asleep by the time we got back. We woke her with coffee & we all enjoyed her brownies for a pre-breakfast.
That climb was a doozy at over 6800 + feet in 20 miles. Fortunately we had cool temperatures along with thunder showers. When I stopped I actually got really cold as I was soaked from pushing through the overgrown trail with wet leaves. At Lookout Spring Sunny was explaining the speed of light/speed of sound calculations and corrected me that it takes 5, not 1, seconds for the sound of thunder to travel 1 mile. Then we were blinded with a brilliant flash and an instantaneous & deafening explosion. Sunny does not curse but he sure did after that one. We quickly called out for Tadpole the hippo & Rolling Thunder as they had just left the protection of the trees & were above on the exposed ridge. No one was struck & we could not see any evidence of a strike but that bolt of lightning was literally right on top of us.
As I write this the sky continues to flash & rumble as a few drops of rain touch the tent’s protective wall.

?

Read Full Post »

Destination: Seiad Valley
Starting Location: Paradise Lake
Today’s Miles: 26.40
Trip Miles: 1663.20
Paradise Lake (1635.7, 6130) to Seiad Valley (1662.1, 1371) ascent (1988) descent (6424)

The completion of the last one thousand miles of a two thousand six hundred mile journey begins with the first step. After waiting out a thunder storm and waiting for thunder to complete the 999.9 miles to go sign, we took that step.
We were dreading the 6 mile road walk into Seiad Valley but then we discovered the road edge was overgrown with Himalayan berries. They look like a very robust blackberry and most people confuse the species. Regardless, the fruit was perfectly ripe & we walked, picked, ate, walked for several miles.
With a few miles to go a car approached very slowly & held out Coca Colas but kept going. I figured it was local jockettes so I just waved as if uninterested. The car then stopped and I heard Tadpole the hippo say: “they are looking for you go-BIG. PCTA board members Laraine & Melouise had tracked me down on their way to hike more miles on the PCT. They have both already hiked the entire trail in a couple of huge segments. We hared huge hugs, drank a cola, & shared tales of the trail.
The highway section of the road walk was terrible & dangerous. We constantly found ourselves standing on a very narrow shoulder in the star thistle as cars sped by. We were offered rides but had to decline as we are walking the entire way to Canada.
Mom & dad made it. They brought drinks for all & then the three of us went to Happy Camp for a great pizza dinner and a nice room on the Klamath River. Mom got a really cute short haircut in anticipation of her hair falling out. She said she also got a wig but I am advocating she go for the balk look. She has a perfectly round head & her ears are the right size for her head. Thus a perfect bald candidate. She is doing great but is extremely tired. We discussed her coming to Manning Park & we realized it is a long shot given her chemo schedule & my weather window. We will see. If she can not make it, we will celebrate at home

?

Read Full Post »

Dick Shit

Destination: Paradise Lake
Starting Location: Etna Summit
Today’s Miles: 29.40
Trip Miles: 1636.80
Etna Summit (1606.3, 5960) to Paradise Lake (1635.7, 6130) ascent (4951) descent (4750)

We got out of Etna a bit late as we had the unfortunate luck of sharing a ride with the most self focused hiker I have ever met. He was late again. I have to admit that this guy got under my skin. Rolling Thunder and I discussed it and he observed that I was bugged because I had an unrealistic expectation that this hiker would respond to the significant & continual feedback regarding his behavior. He on the other hand resigned himself to the certain fact that this person is a certifiable narcissist beyond any hope. At first I thought he was off on his assessment of why I was bugged but upon 10 miles of reflection I know his is right. Expectations lead to disappointments!
I forgot to mention my hitchhike into Etna. Now I have never actually hitchhiked. My folks forbid it absolutely (to do it or to pick someone up) as it was dangerous and surprisingly this 43 year old guy still has that in his head. So I am at Etna Summit getting the fire scoop from a USFS representative, who was waiting for the helicopter to come in & be resupplied when I asked if any cars ever came down the road. She said about every 30 minutes or so and here comes one now. So without doing any of the recommended techniques (take hat off, take sun glasses off, smile, clean up. . .) I jumped to the road shoulder and boldly threw out my thumb as a Dodge Turbo Diesel hauling a trailer topped the summit. He pulled over & as I proceeded to hop in the bed he yelled to get up front. I complied and was met by Sidney the mean looking but loveable boxer who immediately jumped inty my lap.
The driver then asked if those X@#%& feds were kicking me out of the forest. Now the Marines taught me to curse like a sailor & I learned how to talk good old boy by hanging out with contractors on restoration projects, so I responded with a simple yep and then asked what ya hauling? Shit he replied. Pick it up twice a day from the fire line shit house. No shit I said. No shit he replied. Well at least it gets you & Sidney out of the house. Damn straight young fella, my name is Dick. Dick hauling shit. We were instant friends and Dick from Fort Jones explained how he had never picked up a hiker before but now that he met me he would start. He dropped me in town and stuck out a very dirty hand, but what was I to do but reciprocate with my dirty hand. Good to meet you Dick.
That evening Thunder, Tadpole the hippo, & Sunny got in around 9 pm. They were all smiles. They were certain they would not get a ride that late until a truck pulled over, introduced himself as Dick Shit, said he was a friend of go-BIG and told them to hop in. Thank you Dick and as we discusse4d, don’t worry about hikers they don’t want to steal your shit hauler.
Saw the uncles fire as we walked the ridge. No danger with several ridges separating us from a mostly smoldering fire. The next fire was also a non-issue but having a helicopter fly overhead with a very big bag of water was a bit exciting. Had a few lightning strikes but I think overall the situation improved as some rain fell, the wind stayed down, & the humidity shot way up. Passing through is perfectly safe but I understand the closure for those wanting to access other parts of the Wilderness. I want to commend the USFS and the California Department of Forestry for doing an excellent job communicating to PCT hikers. In front of the Etna grocery store was a huge sandwich board with maps, fire status information, & alternatives to skip the section by taking a bus. The information was updated frequently & twice I was stopped on the street and asked if I needed any additional information regarding the fires. I have been critical of some of your land use policies but the information officer on the Klamath NF has their act together. Good work & thank you.
The Marble Mountains are beautiful and their namesake is so appropriate given the rock formations that look like marble. This wilderness also holds a lot of deer & we saw them all evening.
Squatch, a talented independent documentary film maker, asked me to be on the look out for evidence of Big Foot. Seriously. So far nothing but I do have a scat headscratcher. Looks canine or potentially feline in nature and contains fur. Easy, right? It’s a coyote. Not. Here is the problem, it also contains what looks like berries and it would take a 400 lb coyote to produce a pile that big. I don’t know what it is. Saw about 6 piles over a 15 mile area. Mutant ninja Coyote or perhaps a wold was moved to California to explore a vegetarian lifestyle?
I should have taken notes but didn’t so I apologize for not remembering the names of those who posed questions on my guest book. Regardless, from memory there was an inquiry about Pang & Swiss Miss having a journal? Yes they do. Unfortunately it is written in Swiss. If you still want the URL let me know & I will get it for you. There was also an inquiry about me potentially talking to a local Boy Scout troop in Southern California. I was a boy scout and while I disagree with what I believe is unnecessary fear based discrimination at the national level, I think scouting is a great program and I would be honored to talk to your troop. And of course I would keep the focus to hiking the PCT. Let me know if you want to try & work something out. I also do some advocacy work in Washington DC on behalf of the trail that may be of some civic interest to the group.
Now Judith, I am not going to hold you to the offer of 10 lunches because I could not get a single date with you when we worked together. But a lunch date will be in order when I get home.
Our two day strategy into Seiad Valley is going to work well & I am really excited to see my mom.
The small ponds in this area are filled with newts. They are black on top with bright orange under bellies. They are really neat and look like some goofy combination of a lizard, snake & fish. When I was a boy, and fished with crude measures we used to use waterdogs as bait. They look somewhat like a newt. I guess a mudler minnow fly looks a bit like one as well. Bass like any of them.

Read Full Post »

« Newer Posts - Older Posts »